Pubs and Bars / Reviews

Sticks & Broth

By Martin Booth  Friday Sep 19, 2014

If opening in a location known to be one of the trickiest sites to make work in Bristol wasn’t enough, there are also currently roadworks on Baldwin Street and soon the pavement outside will be relaid probably closing Sticks & Broth for at least a day.

But if anyone can make this site work it’s a team well-versed in this area of town, with Sticks & Broth a joint effort between the owners of Thai Kitchen, formally in the Old Fish Market opposite, and Baowow just down the road.

Describing itself as a yakitori and ramen bar, Sticks & Broth will serve the dual purpose of providing another lunchtime option for the large office population in the city centre and also open late on a Friday and Saturday night.

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The kitchen is half in and half out of a corrugated iron shack in one corner, a hangover from this room’s most recent incarnation as Guerrilla Burger, with a bar held up by scaffolding poles and walls painted black.

Ramen (Japanese noodle soup) and donburi (a rice bowl dish) are the two options on the “Tokyo Express” lunchtime option.

Disappointingly there is no yakitori (skewered chicken), at least not currently at lunchtime, but at £6.50 these are good value dishes offering plenty of food to be satisfyingly slurped.

My ghashu pork ramen – with braised pork belly and pork bone broth – was like a lucky dip, its delights only fully revealed once the broth subsided.

Alongside lots of beatifully tender meat, there was a soft boiled egg that had been soaked in soy sauce to take in some of its flavour, sprouts cooked in batter and vegetable dumplings.

This is messy eating. Don’t wear your best clothes or bring a first date here, unimpressed with you dripping food on your best shirt.

That would also be tricky.

Sticks & Broth, 48-52 Baldwin Street, Bristol, BS1 1QB

@sticksnbroth

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