Restaurants / Reviews
Aron’s Jewish Delicatessen – review
Aron’s Jewish Delicatessen has arrived in Chandos Road in Cotham via Hungary and New York.
Inspired by the Jewish Delis of Manhattan’s Lower East Side, don’t let the deli in the name mislead you – this is a restaurant opened by husband and wife team Steve and Márta Varcoe that serves modern Jewish soul food and dishes based on the traditional Ashkenazi cooking of Eastern Europe, all made from local ingredients.
As if to emphasise the global feel of this new restaurant, each table has a map underneath a glass cover. On my table was both Sopron and Pécs, two historic Hungarian towns, while the unmistakable grid of New York was on a window table.
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Always an interesting road, Chandos Road is swift developing a reputation for good food with its most notable neighbours being the Michelin starred Wilks, dessert bar No Man’s Grace and Chandos Fish Bar – one of the best chippies in the area.
The name Aron’s Deli brings to mind Chandos Deli, founded in the road in 1992 and now having five premises across Bristol, Bath and Exeter. Its original premises is now the Little Black Box Theatre.
The menu here is refreshingly short: a selection of ‘premium deli sandwiches’, brunch options including salt beef hash (£7.50) and Hungarian pancakes with a choice of toppings (from £4.95); appetisers the likes of pickled herring (£5.25) and chopped liver (£5.75); and extras of pretzels, pickles and chicken crackling.
Two specials were cold sour cherry soup, another Hungarian speciality, and a chicken salad sandwich.
They also bake many Hungarian cakes including flodni – a rich Jewish layer cake made with walnuts, poppy seeds, apples and plum jam – that can be washed down with a small selection of bottled and draught ciders from independent producers or Czech pilsner, English ale and Polish vodka.
“I just want to try everything,” a diner on another table exclaimed to Steve after perusing that selection.
A little pressed for time on a Tuesday lunchtime, I asked for something quick and filling and was recommended the Reuben deli sandwich (£8.50 for 4oz or £11.50 for 6oz).
The house salt beef had been griddled on rye bread and served with cheese, a Russian dressing and sauerkraut, with homemade coleslaw stained scarlet, a refreshing potato salad and pickles made in-house using local cider vinegar.
It was without doubt one of the best meals I have eaten in Bristol this year. Hungary’s loss is most definitely Bristol’s gain.
Aron’s Jewish Delicatessen, 19 Chandos Road, Redland, Bristol, BS6 6PG
0117 973 7165