Restaurants / Reviews
Bulrush – restaurant review
They’ve got their own in-house forager, a fermentation room, beautifully plated food, a bar area you can pop in to and lounge on the sofa if you don’t fancy the full dining experience.
A small back garden could soon become one of the most sought-after spots in the city, the menu will change throughout the seasons, a tasting selection is sure to tempt punters here from far and wide.
Head chef and first-time restaurateur George Livesy worked alongside top chefs in London including the Roux brothers and Michel Roux Jnr.
is needed now More than ever
His partner Katherine Craughwell brings an unflappable professionalism to front of house, making you feel welcome as soon as you step through the door of what used to be Juniper, in an incarnation before that Stephen and Judy Markwick’s Bistro 21, and a building that once upon a time was a greengrocers.
Bulrush have left it late, but this restaurant which has arrived in Cotham via a fine dining supper club in the capital and an aborted attempt to open in Oxford has become the best restaurant to open in Bristol this year.
On a recent Saturday lunchtime, the £38 tasting menu was the perfect way to experience the myriad of Bulrush delights for the first time, and not one foot was put wrong.
First down the hatch was a plump native oyster with a white currant and sake granite like a gentle frosting of Christmas snow.
Anton the forager had been to Ashton Court to find the Alexander celery for the soup – served in a sturdy pottery bowl made in Portmeirion. More of Anton’s touches came with the nasturtium and wild garlic chives in the truffle custard, the pickled nasturtium buds fizzing with acidity to balance the delicate dish.
More highlights were coming thick and fast, the presentation as pretty as a picture, the seasoning spot-on.
A colourful mosaic of pig’s head with quince, clams and edible flowers; delicious flame-grilled mackerel with barbecued segments of clementine; and if there was a main event, lamb from Spring Farm near Winford featuring shoulder, belly and bolognese.
Then the puddings, worth the entrance fee alone. The intriguing taste of barbecued banana sorbet with peanut butter fudge, chocolate and peanuts. The crunch of honeycomb accompanying the smooth pine yoghurt, quince and chestnuts.
London and Oxford’s loss is Bristol’s gain. Bulrush is simply brilliant.
Bulrush, 21 Cotham Road South, Cotham, Bristol, BS6 5TZ
0117 329 0990