Restaurants / Reviews
No Man’s Grace
Those of us with a sweet tooth often look at the puddings on a menu before the main course.
At No Man’s Grace on Chandos Road in Redland, the puddings can be the main course.
Opening during Wimbledon fortnight, a nod to SW19 comes in the form of strawberries and cream. Then there is a raspberry souffle and white chocolate ice cream, dark chocolate mouse and coffee, and almond cake and lemon (all £6 or £6.50).
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Each pudding is matched with a different dessert wine – for example the strawberries and cream is matched with a 2011 Moscato d’Asti Moncucco, a sparkling white wine from north-western Italy.
Replacing what used to be Moreish, with owner Tim Moores now at The Urban Standard, “dessert bar and tapas den” No Man’s Grace has been opened by front of house manager Julu Irvine and head chef John Watson, who met while both working at the Gallimaufry.
Prior to the Galli, Watson worked at Michelin-starred Westbury-on-Trym restaurant Casamia, and their influence is apparent in the names of some of the tapas, none of which costs more than £10: “salmon, watercress”, “duck breast, duck faggot, grapefruit”, “monkfish, pancetta, mushroom”.
Currently on tap are Camden Pale Ale from the Camden Town Brewery, Czech lager Kozel and Devon Red cider from Sandfords Orchards.
A wide selection of spirits hints at some of the cocktails that will be on offer.
And an interesting choice of bottles includes Briska pomegranate cider from Sweden, and Einstök white ale from Iceland which is infused with coriander and orange peel.
Inside, there are mismatched chairs, tasteful modern art framed on one wall, and antique wooden cabinets behind the bar alongside Kilner jars holding various ingredients.
But it was like a greenhouse in the restaurant when I visited on Friday afternoon, so I swiftly made for the outside decking area.
Chandos Road is currently one of the most exciting areas of Bristol for new food and drink openings, swept along by the Michelin-starred glow of Wilks.
No Man’s Grace is the most exciting recent opening of the lot, not just in this corner of Redland but citywide, especially if you’ve got a sweet tooth.
No Man’s Grace, 6 Chandos Road, Redland, Bristol, BS6 6PE
07436 588273
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