Following in the footsteps of history

An adventurer is recreating the epic journey of 1930s explorer Bertram Thomas. 

Thomas, who lived in Pill, was the first person to cross the Empty Quarter, or the Rub’ al-Khali, the world’s largest sand desert

Mark Evans aims to walk 1,300km through Saudi Arabia to Doha, Qatar. He said he is trying to highlight the achievements of the Bristol explorer: “Back in 1930, the heroic age of exploration was coming to an end.

“Exploration institutions considered the Empty Quarter to be the last great challenge. The world was obsessed with the romance of Arabia.”

Bristol civil servant Bertram Russell crossed the Empty Quarter in the 1930s Photo: Royal Geographical Society

Evans will walk from Salalah in Oman across the ‘Empty Quarter,’ an area three times the size of the UK. His journey is expected to take 60 days. 

Writing for Geographical Magazine Evans has been documenting his trip so far and here are his edited highlights: 

DAY 1: We’re off!

10 December – Distance to Doha: 944km

A police escort enabled the camels to negotiate the busy streets of Salalah without any problems, and a constant stream of well-wishers stopped and bade us well.

In 1930 Sheikh Saleh Bin Kalut and Bertram Thomas headed straight out across the plains towards the Jebel Qarra, but in 2015 we have to negotiate Salalah’s impressive new airport.

DAY 3: The land of the Bedouin

12 December – Distance to Doha: 918km

Our longest day so far; after a windy and cold night at our hilltop camp, it was good to get walking this morning to keep warm – hot rocks out of the fireplace were in demand to warm cold hands.

Around us on hilltops are signs that man has occupied this area for thousands of years – old graves and burial mounds litter the landscape.

DAY 5: Those boys were tough

14 December – Distance to Doha: 884km

As each day passes we are increasingly in awe of the original party that completed this journey in 1930 – what they achieved was quite extraordinary.

Just how tough the original team were was driven home to us today as we tended to blisters and cracked lips. In his book, Arabia Felix, Bertram Thomas wrote:

‘One of the team was complaining of stoppage of the bowels, which had not responded to my explosive medicines. His companions resorted to another approach; one end of a rifle bolt was inserted into a fire until it glowed red-hot. It was then prescribed to seven places – behind the left and right ear, left heel and right heel, top of the head, centre of the forehead and the navel. The cure was instantaneous, and we moved on the next morning’.

DAY 10: Real expeditions should make a difference

19 December – Distance to Doha: 789km

On his journey, Thomas collected countless specimens, some of which were new to science, and many of which are stored today at the Natural History Museum in London. By the time Thomas reached our current position, he had shot Oryx and Hyena, and seen signs of badgers, hedgehogs and numerous snakes. His record keeping was meticulous, and he collected 125 specimens from the sand desert alone.

Carried by the camels was an array scientific instruments. To avoid being accused of magic, or worse, Thomas followed a system at the end of each day: ‘To serve the ends of secrecy, always take up position on the edge of camp at some thirty to forty yards distance. There, on reaching camp, my servant would place my bedding and boxes whilst I joined my companions around the campfire. As darkness fell, I would retire for the night, and my servant let it be known that I was not to be disturbed. My three chronometers, two aneroid barometers and a wet and dry bulb thermometer were then laid out on the table…’

DAY 13: Three wise men (and one Englishman)

22 December – Distance to Doha: 754km

Our first day with the camels today, covering 18km north towards the border with Saudi Arabia. We are now travelling through enormous star dunes, which will get bigger still when we enter Saudi.

We have now been on the go for 13 days, and are much in need of a shower. The best we can do is to drop a few beads of frankincense onto the fire, and waft the aromatic smoke using a cupped hand into our faces to freshen up. Those wearing Arabic dress straddle the fire and allow the smoke to drift up their clothing and out of the neck, so ensuring a full body experience!

DAY 21: Cajoling camels as New Year approaches

30 December – Distance to Doha: 627km

 It has been tough going for both walkers and camels, as the dunes have grown in both size and steepness.

On such terrain, the camels need careful handling; going upwards, in 1930 Bertram Thomas had to physically dig pathways for the camels to follow; our own camels found it more difficult going downhill – one refusing point blank, and the others skating down like Bambi on ice.

DAY 23: The Long Haul

1 January, 2016 – Distance to Doha: 607km

In their books Arabia Felix, and Arabian Sands, Bertram Thomas and Wilfred Thesiger referred to the monotony of the long marches through the sands, the aim being to get from waterhole to waterhole, or grazing to grazing as quickly as you could to ensure the health of the camels upon which your life depended.

Day 31: The vanishing moon

9 January – Distance to Doha: 482km

Tonight we look forward to a spectacular night sky, as the moon has now left us, for a few nights at least, before it slowly re-appears.

Over the past 30 nights we have slept out on the sand (we have no tents), and been treated to some spectacular shooting stars and a dazzling full moon that was almost light enough to read by, and certainly light enough to travel safely by. 

Day 33: Trembling Camels and Shifting Sands

11 January – Distance to Doha: 436km

Last night proved to be the second sandstorm of the journey so far. A strong northerly wind kicked up yesterday afternoon, and grew in strength to about 20 to 25 knots as the afternoon and evening progressed.

By the time we went to bed, sand was flying everywhere once more, and all we could do was to bury ourselves in our sleeping bags and wait it out in the hope that it would quickly blow through. 

Day 34: The Northward Dash

12 January – Distance to Doha: 407km

For the first time, our camels were able to drink their fill as we set up a rope and pulley system over the Turaiga well. As is tradition, our Omani and Saudi companions started chanting as the water came up, bucket by bucket, whilst the camels danced and slurped in enthusiastic appreciation.

Day 35: Expedition Psychology

13 January – Distance to Doha: 375km

One of the scientific projects we are undertaking on this journey is working with Dr Nathan Smith from Northampton University, who is undertaking research into extreme environment expedition psychology. 

Having covered almost 900km so far, and been walking for 35 days, we have all suffered from blisters and sore feet, as well as the odd camel kick. More challenging by far than the physical has been dealing with the mental issues associated with such a long and relatively arduous journey. Questions start to niggle at the back of your mind; ‘Will we make it? Will the camels cope?’, and on the worst day of all, when temperatures were at their highest, the sand was soft and steep and the camels had sunk to their knees, bellowing in protest, ‘Why do I choose to do these ridiculous things when I could be at home doing a ‘normal’ job’.

Bristol247 will bring you more updates from Mark Evans’ amazing journey over the coming weeks.

(All words and photos with permission of Mark Evans, Sim Davis and John C Smith)