Cafes / Reviews

Tradewind Espresso – cafe review

By Martin Booth  Tuesday Sep 1, 2015

“I only meant to stay for a coffee,” the talkative customer explained to her waitress. “I just couldn’t resist.”

Leaving after two coffees and a large lunch, there may well be lots more excuses like this from customers at Tradewind Espresso.

No sooner had the lady – fed and caffeinated more than she thought – walked back onto Blackboy Hill than her table was taken by two work colleagues on their lunch break.

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On the largest, communal table, a polo-shirted 30-something wrote tiny script in his impeccably neat notebook, while on one of the smaller tables a young couple cooed over their baby in a high chair.

At the counter meanwhile, a familiar barista from this corner of town was ensuring a smooth operation.

For the last 12 months, Courtney Taylor Jackson could usually be found in Roasted Rituals‘ converted Citroen van a hundred yards away.

Now he’s in charge of the Hengrove roastery’s first foray into bricks and mortar – with the van remaining for now, originally announcing it was to leave and then that it would be staying thanks to concerted pressure from concerned regulars.

Tradewind Espresso seats some 20 people inside and a dozen more in a small courtyard out back.

Wood paneling makes up the floor and some of the walls, hanging filament bulbs ensure this place is bang on trend, and small brown cold brew bottles make for a unique design touch.

Coffee of course sits pride of place on the menu. An unfortunately curdled almond milk latte on our table was replaced without any fuss by a much more pleasing black americano with hints of liquorice, while the intriguingly named Biggie Smalls turned out to be an espresso swiftly followed by a flat white – both made from Roasted Rituals’ seasonal blend Highground with tasting notes of caramel, sweet orange and chocolate.

Food here is mostly made on the premises. Ratatouille and burrata (£7.50) saw a vibrant plate of vegetables joined by burrata cheese made from mozzarella and cream and resembling a poached egg; while a cheese toastie (£3.50) had melted gruyere oozing satisfyingly out of the sourdough.

Tradewind most closely resembles Workhouse on Perry Road, with the coffee in the premier league of what Bristol has to offer alongside Full Court Press and Small Street Espresso.

A rain shower prolonged my own stay with a delicate raspberry and almond friande just the trick to be washed down by a cortado, if any excuse was needed to take a little more time than strictly necessary inside this irresistible new cafe.

Tradewind Espresso, 118 Whiteladies Road, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 2RP

www.tradewindespresso.com

Read more about all Bristol’s new openings here

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