‘I felt empty without cooking’

When Larkin Cen first founded Woky Ko in a pair of converted shipping containers at Wapping Wharf six years ago, he did it because he felt that fundamentally, Chinese food was under-represented in the UK.

His intention for Woky Ko was for it to be a portal to take people to where the food is from; food that was something more than just sweet and sour chicken.

A lot has changed in those six years. While the business has grown, Larkin has also become a father and is now a recognisable face on the small screen due to appearances on BBC Two’s Great British Menu.

But as the company expanded, Larkin was cooking less and less; although he got back behind the stoves during lockdown as Woky Ko swiftly became a takeaway business.

“I have always felt, especially after doing Great British Menu, that I really missed cooking,” Larkin told Bristol24/7 on a recent morning at Woky Ko on Queen’s Road, that will be reopening as a restaurant on Tuesday for the first time since the pandemic.

“I feel that it’s a big part of my life that’s missing that makes me happy. Personally, I feel a bit empty without it, I don’t feel quite complete.”

It won’t come as a surprise therefore that Larkin will now be in the kitchen more at Queen’s Road, running the pass as guests in the 30-seat upstairs dining room overlooking the Wills Memorial Building enjoy a menu made up of authentic south Chinese dishes.

A banquet-style menu will be served at Woky Ko on Queen’s Road – photo: Woky Ko

Larkin is only one generation removed from family members of his who grew up in Guangzhou. His grandparents came from China to Birmingham, with his grandfather being head chef in a restaurant before moving to Cardiff and opening a restaurant of his own.

Larkin’s mum moved to Wales from China first, followed by his dad; with Larkin growing up above their Chinese takeaway. The 38-year-old worked as an employment and HR solicitor before moving into hospitality himself, with Woky Ko now having two restaurants in Wapping Wharf, a stall in St Nick’s Market, the soon-to-reopen restaurant on Queen’s Road and its first restaurant in Birmingham opening in October.

After testing the water at some hot pot nights at Queen’s Road inspired by one of his acclaimed Great British Menu dishes, Larkin has also been developing many more new dishes for what he hopes will be a destination dining concept.

“I’m so excited by this menu because it is so innovative,” said Larkin, before taking out his phone to show Bristol24/7 a photo of classically Chinese pan-fried baos which he had made just a few days previously.

Larkin Cen’s pan-fried baos – photo: Woky Ko

There will be a hot pot but for individual diners rather than to share which will come sizzling to the table and be served with rice.

“I want to do some really authentic quirky things that you might not have tasted before. And really challenge your perception of Chinese food. That’s what I think this menu here will do and I think that people want that.”

To celebrate Larkin’s return to the kitchen alongside the first-class menu, the team at Woky Ko are offering 50 per cent off the entire food menu to the first 200 people who book to attend in the opening week. To book and for more information, visit www.wokyko.com/bookings-popup

Main photo: Woky Ko

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