Harvey Nichols Second Floor Restaurant – review

Standing on the corner of Quakers Friars, the sleek black exterior of Harvey Nichols cuts an imposing figure.

From Penn Street, through a door in this glossy façade and up to the top floor of the store is the entrance to the restaurant – an award-winning establishment that has been in residence for a good ten years, yet flies under the radar for many Bristolians.

A desk guards a corridor, displaying a vast glass-fronted wine cabinet, which leads on to the dining area beyond.

The setting is trying for high class luxury, but falls slightly short, and the result is part secret service, part airport lounge.

A friendly greeting belies the imposing frontage and any dietary requirements are enquired about, with dedicated menus ready to cater for vegans, vegetarians and allergy sufferers.

Settling back in a comfy golden chair before a crisp, white table cloth, adorned with a simple flower decoration, the scene feels like something out of Mad Men, as a retro style liquor trolley sits poised for action.

The clientele is varied on this mid-week evening, as diners linger over their meals, wine flowing and carefree laughter in the air.

The current winter offer includes not only a three course dinner for £22, but also a gin cocktail, posing enough of an excuse for even the staunchest abstainer to raise a toast to Tuesday night.

The menu offers just the right amount of intrigue, with mains options including braised guinea fowl, mushroom stuffing and soft polenta, served with a Madeira jus, or – for the vegetarians – potato and coconut bonda, tamarind-spiced chickpeas, pilaf rice, with a coriander and mint dressing.

With orders taken and cocktail promptly delivered, there’s ample opportunity to sit back and relax.

From the shiny walls, to the sumptuous seating, a strong gold theme runs throughout the restaurant, while soothing elevator music plays overhead.

The whole effect shouldn’t work – but – as soft lighting casts a glow over tables, it is incredibly easy to forget about the stresses of the outside world and bask in the surrounds.

A canape of gnocchi and deep fried kale, served with a cheesy crumb, melts in the mouth and sets the tone for the meal to follow.

A basket of bread is soon joined by a generous bowl of carrot, thyme and red lentil soup. The bite-sized balls of batter encased, deep-fried yoghurt floating within make for a surprisingly inventive – if slightly soggy – addition to a satisfying starter.

The main event continues this strong standard that just falls short of outstanding.

The roasted fillet of cod is cooked to perfection and simple in flavour, allowing the accompanying riot of mixed cabbage, interspersed with almonds, pomegranate and the odd orange segment, to shine through to tantalising effect.

It’s a tough toss-up between the sticky ginger sponge, served with beer ice cream, and caramelised oranges and clementine’s, with orange blossom & saffron sorbet and orange set cream for dessert.

The latter doesn’t disappoint, as the fusion of citrus and floral flavours mingle with the delicate sweet fruit and soft cream to create a carnival of delight on the tongue, guaranteed to take your mind off the dark, damp, cold weather outside.

A 10 per cent service charge is added to the bill, but wait staff deserve more for their flawless professionalism and genuinely friendly demeanour.

No one has budged from the scattering of occupied tables throughout the course of the night and, at 10pm, many look ready to settle in for the night.

It may not give much away from the outside, but Harvey Nicks’ restaurant, with its refreshingly modern, uncomplicated approach is a surprising delight.

Harvey Nichols
27 Philadelphia Street
Quakers Friars
BS1 3BZ

www.harveynichols.com/restaurant/bristol-dining

0117 916 8898

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