Sen – cafe review

It may only be its second day of opening, but Sen Cafe already feels like a well-established favourite.

A cluster of people wait patiently for their orders by the gleaming counter in the Baldwin Street premises, while a team of staff expertly cater for the busy lunchtime rush.

Having already a name for themselves in one of the kiosks in Broadmead, the team behind Big Bao have opened a new Vietnamese cafe in what was most recently Foundations cafe.

The move is yet further proof of Bristol’s appetite for authentic street food from across the globe, with the ever-expanding Chilli Daddy empire now well-established just a few doors down.

It’s not a particularly easy market on Baldwin Street, which has seen its fair share of restaurant comings and goings. But the friendly, family-run Sen seems right at home and is doing a roaring trade this Tuesday lunchtime.

The menu has staples such as Vietnamese baguettes (banh mi), bao buns and bubble tea that Big Bao fans will be familiar, plus a range of hearty new options, including salad and rice boxes and pho – a traditional noodle soup.

At the counter, everything’s set up for a fast, efficient service. Filled rice rolls and salad boxes are packaged in the fridge ready to go and turnover is high.

Over in the cafe area, it’s a thoroughly relaxed affair. The sun shines in through the large windows, casting long beams of light across the soft wooden furniture and floors. Basking in the heat of the tall window seat, surrounded by the array of (faux) vegetation, it’s easy to imagine yourself castaway to sunnier climes.

A hubbub of chatter can be heard over the chilled background music and smiling staff members take every opportunity to talk to customers – their pride in the new place evident to see.

Green-topped bottles of Sriracha Hot Chilli Sauce are stacked on wooden shelves on the back wall, making both a vibrant and practical display for what is a staple condiment here.

Small bottles of the fiery red sauce and hoisin sauce are also neatly set in little wicker baskets on each table.

The recommended lychee and strawberry bubble tea (£3) is intently sweet, but very refreshing. Even the drink-in option comes in a plastic cup, with a film plastic lid to be broken with a large plastic straw, which is a shame in this age of awareness around sustainability and could surely be swapped for a re-usable container.

The huge bowl of veggie pho (£7.50) is delicately fragrant, packed full of fresh ingredients, with generous chunks of tofu, vegetables, spring onions and oodles of noodles.

The chilli and hoisin sauces are on hand to make sure you can get it to the perfect level of heat, and a crisp side of bean sprouts, fresh chilli and lemon is delicious as an accompaniment or, better still, added into the mix.

The bowl is seemingly never ending, making for a hearty and thoroughly satisfying lunch that doesn’t leave you over full.

One happily-sated customer remains at her table after the meal is over, chatting to the matriarch of the family that runs Sen about her upcoming trip to Vietnam.

Having perfected and expanded on their recipe, the Sen team prove they are worth their early popularity in what is certainly a very welcome new addition to Baldwin Street – that’s pho sure.

Sen Cafe by Big Bao , 27-29 Newminster House, Baldwin Street, Bristol, BS1 1LT

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