Vincenzo’s Pizza House – restaurant review

It’s just after 5pm, and Vincenzo’s Pizza House is quiet. We’re the first ones in for dinner.

A member of staff sits hunched over, scrolling through his phone; before jumping to his feet after realising he is in company.

We’re shown to our seats, and Renato Carosone’s ‘Tu Vuò Fa’ l’Americano’ begins to play from the speakers.

If you’re new to Vincenzo’s, expect nothing less than visual overload. A family-run business, the Italian eatery has thrived on Park Street for nearly half a century – and its intricately-decorated interior reflects nothing less.

The family-run restaurant first opened on Park Street in 1970 but now faces closure

Hundreds of postcards line the walls among collections of football shirts, family photographs and foreign bank notes. An autographed photo from Liverpool’s Cilla Black hangs pride of place near the bar area, too.

Some crumpled and faded, others glossy and new; postcard greetings come from across Italy and beyond; Sorrento, Lecce, Pisa – “it’s like the front of a huge family fridge!” says my dinner date.

Our waitress, who’s primary school photograph is displayed proudly in the restaurant, takes our drinks order. Throughout our visit, she’s attentive and warm. I opt for a glass of house red (£4), which tastes almost like a dessert wine; smooth and very sweet.

Vincenzo’s menu is enormous. Meats, pasta, pizzas and risotto; each offered in varying formats. After much indecision between a full or half pasta portion, I resolve bruschetta (£4.95) followed by a full portion of Penne Norma (£10) is the best way to go.

Postcards and football memorabilia are pinned to the walls of Vincenzo’s Park Street home

It is hard not to gawp at the restaurant’s décor. Wooden floors, panelling and soft lighting takes you back in time and accentuates the restaurant’s deeply sincere insight into the family who owns it. It’s lovely, but it’s also incredibly sad.

In December 2018, it was announced that Vincenzo’s will soon be demolished to make way for new student accommodation.

Grand planning permissions and predictable “regrets” aside, it’s hard to imagine that the demolition of the restaurant’s Chianti bottle-ceiling, sunny gazebo and memory-filled walls will be wiped out with much remorse.

Sobering thoughts aside, the starters arrive. A generous four slices of bruschetta – toasted bread and fresh, tossed tomatoes – are arranged neatly among fresh rocket and balsamic drizzles.

Bruschetta (£4.95)

Simplicity underpins the main course, too. A tasty, plentiful plate of al dente penne sits in a sweet and straightforward tomato sauce, doused in a healthy helping of parmesan; while soft chunks of aubergine fall between inner webs of mozzarella. We eat to roaring Italian music, momentarily escaping the sirens of Park Street beneath.

We’re stuffed, but it’s hard to resist Vincenzos’ crammed dessert fridge. So, to finish, we share a coconut and Nutella tiramisu (£5.95).

A full portion of Penne Norma (£10)

It’s a gluttonous treat, if not a little odd. A thick Nutella layer adds a welcome bite to the dessert; while dissolving, canned whipped cream leaves us with sticky, sugary teeth. It’s not a gourmet dish by any means, but it’s fun – and we eat the lot. Our handwritten bill arrives, and we prepare to leave – possibly for the last time.

The food here is unfussy – it’s traditional Italian food executed without a nugget of pretension. And while the bruschetta is nothing we couldn’t have whipped up at home, and the pasta (seemingly) straightforward, Vincenzo’s is still worth the trip, 49 years on from its opening.

Whether it be to spot something new within its quirky interior (there’s always something to find) or to enjoy the family’s fantastic service, this is an eatery where history and character supersede everything else.

The thought of it closing to be replaced with another, clinical student accommodation is enough to make anyone sick to the stomach.

Vincenzo’s Pizza House, 71A Park Street, BS1 5PB

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