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The Pickled Brisket – takeaway review
Cargo 2 residents The Pickled Brisket are serial flirters with the restaurant scene. Having cut their teeth on pop-ups and festival stalls over the years, they are now settling down for monogamy in their first ever permanent residence.
Their tiny space in the Wapping Wharf development has no seating, just a counter to perch at once you’ve received your food, but with rapid service and the whole harbour on the doorstep, it was busy a busy lunchtime service on their opening day.
The hand-drawn menu on the blackboard is a nice touch, and some geometric art jazzes up the inside – but, of course, the real winner is the brisket, which is hauled from an enormous silver pot, pink and steaming, to be sliced generously and stuffed into your choice of bagel, sourdough rye or brioche bun.
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I opted for the Reuben (£7.50), with extra sauerkraut, cheese and pickled red cabbage for a zingy kick, and sat out in the sunshine beside the water, drawing jealous stares from passers by as I demolished the huge sandwich.
I quickly realised there was no hope of eating it gracefully – about two bites in, I abandoned all pretence and went full cavewoman, ripping the meat apart with my fingers and licking them clean.
The brisket was meltingly tender, salty and delicious. The gently sweet bun was a nice contrast, and the vinegary gherkins and pickled cabbage complimented the meaty richness. The heat of the mustard was fiery without being overpowering – a bold flavour choice that might not be for the faint hearted.
None of the fat had been trimmed from the meat, and as a reformed vegetarian I struggled with a couple of particularly gristly mouthfuls – this is certainly a lunch for bona fide carnivores.
In a world of bland avocado toast and vegan gluten-free everything, The Pickled Brisket are proudly flying the flag for meat-eaters and people who want a bit of bite to their sandwiches. Just don’t forget the napkins, and definitely don’t think you can eat it attractively on a first date.
Pickled Brisket, Cargo 2, Wapping Wharf, BS1 6ZA
www.thepickledbrisket.co.uk
Read more Cargo 2 reviews: Tare
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