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Roots Lounge – restaurant review
The story of Roots Lounge has had more twists and turns than a rollercoaster.
After an epic effort and successful crowdfunding campaign to get the vegan venture off the ground earlier this year, the previous owners had to call it a day for personal reasons just a few months after opening.
This could have been the end for the St Nicholas Street café, but a couple who supported the initial fundraising drive decided to step up and take it on themselves – a few weeks, a lick of paint and a brand new menu later and the premises is back in business.
is needed now More than ever
While it’s still early days, the new owners appear to have got the recipe just right.
It’s a Wednesday lunchtime and the spacious café/bar has a vibrant, welcoming feel with groups of friends gathered around rustic wooden tables and lone diners relaxing on the sofa and window seats, where tubs of flowers and chilli plants add a touch of vibrant colour.
A stunning tree mural on the wall outside can be seen through large windows to the back of the building and an array of delicious-looking cakes are displayed on the polished wooden counter.
There’s an ever-growing portfolio of vegan eateries in Bristol now, and while some tiptoe around the matter of their plant-based menu, making little issue of the lack of meat or dairy, Roots Lounge chooses to be loud and proud about it.
This means that alongside the appetising menu – where lunch options include savoury pancakes, sandwiches, wraps, topped sourdough bruschetta and more – diners will also find an array of cards and reading literature from animal rights organisations.
With the order placed, I perch on a stool by the window – the ideal spot to watch the world go by outside – and flick through some of the magazines available. Viva! Life, published by the campaign group, is certainly an interesting – if predictably biased – read: the horror stories of farming practices enough to put you off sausages for life – which I suppose is the idea, but is still a lot to look at on an empty stomach.
Reading material to one side, the clean green smoothie (£4.50) arrives first, a heady blend of spinach, mango, peach, apple and hemp seeds served in a jar with a biodegradable straw. It is light, refreshing, a perfect palate cleanser and gone all too quickly.
The salad (£10 on the specials board) is beautifully, presented, zesty and fresh. Very lightly seasoned quinoa is complemented by the crunch of cashew nuts and seeds on a bed of greens, with a light dressing.
It is a well put-together, pleasant combination, but one that doesn’t exactly blow you away.
The accompanying chips are fried to perfection and coated with a vague hint of spice. They are also served as a pretty pint-sized portion – literally about half an avocado’s worth, because it is an avocado-themed bowl they arrive in.
There can be no faulting the attention to detail at Roots Lounge, which even boasts an 80s video game table, and effortlessly combines quirky fixtures with a calm vibe that keeps diners lingering for longer.
With late night openings and inventive menu options, this is one plant-powered place that’s loaded with promise. Meat-lovers, this is not the eatery for you.
Roots Lounge, 8 St Nicholas Street, BS1 1UQ.
0117 302 0021
Read more: Goram & Vincent – restaurant review
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