Pubs and Bars / Pubs
Pub of the week: The Grace
The small dandelions painted underneath the polished curved wooden bar at The Grace are a sign that this new Gloucester Road opening has joined a fast-growing group of Bristol restaurants and pubs.
The Grace is the newest member of a family that is also made up of The Greenbank in Easton and Zazu’s Kitchen, after a nomadic start now settled with two venues a few hundred yards away from The Grace and south of the river on North Street.
Overseen by Zazu’s Toby Bywater and backed by DJ turned restaurateur James Savage and the deep pockets of Venue founder Dougal Templeton, this new merry band of restaurants and pubs are quickly becoming some of the best in Bristol.
is needed now More than ever
The former ladies toilets to the right of the entrance have been removed to allow more seating and reveal a handsome stained glass window.
There has been a complete redesign of the outside area, with plenty of greenery. And you could step off the street through the large front windows, although this would be frowned upon somewhere looking to appeal to an older clientele than nearby student-friendly pubs.
It was refreshing to see that among the changes at The Grace, in premises most recently occupied by The Robin Hood’s Retreat, an older gentleman – already known by name by the staff – was nursing his pint at the bar.
The four ales currently on tap here are Bath Ales Gem, Fubar and Arbor’s Triple Hop, with two Freedom lagers and Estrella, and ciders Rosie’s Pig and Aspall.
There is also an extensive wine list, with most available by the glass or bottle, and cocktails all at £7 which will change every month.
In charge of the food is talented young chef Wilf Penfold, whose CV includes stints at The Albion, Kensington Arms and Berwick Lodge.
My grilled octopus with green olives and lemon (£7.50) was delicately cooked and retained strong charcoal flavours from the grill.
After an ordering mix-up, I also got to sample the marinated chicken skewers and harrisa yoghurt (£5.50), and lamb and rose harissa koftes and babaganoush (£6), both excellent if on the small side even for this “small plates” menu.
There are also “pizzettes” from £5.25 and desserts including vanilla cheesecake and strawberries (£5.50) and buttermilk blancmange, white peaches and basil (£5.50).
Like its cricketing namesake at the crease, The Grace has already stamped its authority on the Gloucester Road.
The Grace, 197 Gloucester Road, Bishopston, Bristol, BS7 8BG
0117 924 4334
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