Pubs and Bars / Pub of the Week
Pub of the week: Portwall Tavern
Nestled in the shadows of the St Mary Redcliffe Church, the Portwall Tavern has been serving drinkers in the city since 1847.
Much like the majestic building opposite, the pub is a standing survivor of development in this ever-changing pocket of Bristol that is set to see more regeneration in the coming years.
These days, situated between a casino and office blocks, the historic tavern is passed by hordes of commuters each day.
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Those who opt to venture inside on this early Wednesday evening will be met with the lingering scent of still-fresh paint from the pub’s recent refurbishment.
Beyond the bold, blue exterior, the inside is a curious mix of old and new. A print of a historic map covers the far wall and the furniture is a collection of wooden tables and comfy seating at varying heights.
The blue theme runs through the panelled walls and bar, while framed historic photos act as a nod to the pub’s history and a tube-map style print, depicting the ‘pub stops of Bristol’, adds a modern touch. The effect is pleasant enough and ornate mirrors opposite the bar make the relatively compact space feel roomy.
A smattering of post-work groups and lone drinkers sup pints at tables and tinny pop music can be faintly heard over the hub of chatter.
The woman behind the bar gives a friendly greeting and goes though the food options at this time of day – it’s a choice of sides or pizzas.
The olives, bread and salad (£4.95) seem like a good snack option, but alas, a rummage in the kitchen reveals they’re clean out of olives. “I can just run to out other site to get some,” offers the man helpfully, but I opt for chips (£2.95) instead and retire to one of the faux-leather seats, drink in hand.
Chips arrive in due course, and it’s certainly a generous plateful, but the taste is as uninspiring as the music overhead. No amount of Aspall vinegar and tomato ketchup can liven up these listless spuds.
A passing pizza, wafting the heady aroma of molten cheese in its wake, looks like a far more promising option.
Back at the bar, a regular is greeted like a long lost friend and more people arrive for a post-work bevy and peruse the ample beer stocks, before settling at tables with their pints.
The Portwall Tavern wisely has a takeaway app to cater for the office crowd and seems to be doing a steady trade among this target market.
This historic Redcliffe boozer, a sister venue to one of the city’s oldest pubs, The Shakespeare on Victoria Street, might not be to everybody’s tastes, but it remains an important part of Bristol’s historic fabric – and, with a fresh lick of paint and a forward-thinking attitude, long may it go on.
The Portwall Tavern, Portwall Lane, Bristol, BS1 6NB
0117 9220 442
www.portwalltavern.co.uk
Read more: Pub of the Week: Annexe Inn
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