Pubs and Bars / Reviews
The Ship Inn – pub review
The Ship Inn’s old carpet remains in place after its latest refurbishment, clashing oddly with the rest of the interior, but this is about the only reminder of past incarnations of this Park Row pub.
The decoration feels forced, and the mix of styles is less eclectic and more jarring in a makeover that has come with a change of ownership.
Tony and Ola Zaremba-Wyczlinski have come to the Ship from The George Inn at Lacock, which was voted into CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide three times under the couple’s management.
An old favourite with musicians stopping by for a pre-show drink on their way to Colston Hall, and popular with students for its Thursday pub quizzes and free pool tables, the Ship is now not just a pub but a tapas bar, restaurant and grill.
Photo by Charlotte Chambers
The former dark, varnished furniture has been replaced by mismatched tables and chairs painted in bold, primary hues. Bare lightbulbs and exposed wires reflect a pervasive trend in Bristol bars and restaurants for industrial-chic decor.
Alongside the stripped-back furniture and lighting sit artfully arranged displays of vintage radios, antique books and rusty anchors, and one wall is pasted with garish, retro posters.
Equally jarring was the music being played. On entering the pub, gentle Latin guitar music was enticing on a sunny May afternoon, but this abruptly gave way to Rihanna’s Umbrella before transitioning into a French techno number.
Suddenly a booming voice informed me about monthly subscription rates, and I discovered that Spotify radio was being pumped through the sound system. Perhaps it wouldn’t kill the Ship to take note and invest in one of these subscriptions.
Fortunately, the wine went down a lot more easily than the music. The drinks menu offered an impressive variety of good wines by the glass and bottle, as well as Strongbow Cloudy Apple cider, a selection of spirits and freshly ground coffee.
Beers on tap include First Dawn, Old Peculiar, Deuchars, Charles Wells and the Ship’s own home-brew.
The bartender was friendly and helpful, recommending the Casablanca Valley Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, which was crisp and refreshing – perfect for a warm evening.
Regulars will be pleased to hear that the Ship’s famous burgers are still on the food menu, served in brioche buns with a choice of different cut chips. Alongside traditional British favourites such as fish and chips and sticky-toffee pudding are some more international flavours, with Spanish tapas on offer for a light meal or starter. There is an emphasis on homemade food using locally and responsibly sourced ingredients, with plenty of vegetarian options to choose from.
The Ship is a nice enough place to have a drink, but the wine was perhaps the only refreshing thing about this newly refurbished watering hole. It’s a shame that so many good, old-fashioned-style pubs are being scoured of their quirkiness and morphing into uniform, bland gastropubs that can be found on every street corner.
A lot of money has evidently been spent on this refurbishment so it seems strange to go to such pains to create a faux-retro feel when there was already so much history, character and charm in the original establishment.
The Ship Inn, 8 Lower Park Row, BS1 5BJ
0117 925 9459
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