Bank: ‘Creative flavours and beautifully curated plates’ – restaurant review

When you think of Totterdown, you most likely imagine vertiginous streets, a ring road that never was and a good pub or two.

But this corner of Bristol is also fast becoming a foodie destination, with Bank the latest addition to its rapidly expanding repertoire; an ‘all-day concept’ serving up speciality coffee by day and sublime small plates by night.

Occupying an old Lloyds Bank building on Wells Road, Bank offers a sparkling evening view of the lights of south Bristol from it’s large windows, interspersed by flashes of traffic.

Inside, you’ll find high ceilings and a simple but spacious layout. If owner Dan O’Regan didn’t have a knack for interior styling this could feel cold and unwelcoming, but instead the bare wood tables and hexagonal white tiles (that bear a striking similarity to those also in New Cut in Wapping Wharf) position the eye-catching food centre stage.

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First, the cocktail menu. Someone spent a long time devising these drinks and concocting their names. All the cocktails on this eclectic list are original and unique.

Bad news if you came here looking for a porn star martini but good news if you’re looking for a fun- and pun-filled time, like ‘Panic! At the Pisco’ (£9) and ‘Obi Sichaun Kenobi’ (£9.50).

On to the food, and for a starter it had to be the goat ham with fermented tomato (£4.50) given that I had never seen goat ham on a menu before, let alone eaten it.

The dish was bizarre yet tasty: the goat ham was most similar in taste to prosciutto but in terms of texture could be likened to a salami or even sashimi. It was delicious and paired perfectly with the tangy fermented tomato which had been pureed and was perfect for mopping up with the slices of ham.

Who knew that you could make ham from goats? – photo: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

The food menu here is a list of small plates. You can order all eight of the main course small plates for £76 if there are a few of you. For the main course, we chose the tartiflette (£8.70), porchetta (£10.70), lobster bisque (£13.70) and smoked garlic miso broth (£8.30).

Tartiflette combines two of life’s great pleasures: cheese and potatoes. This miso-infused version was a generous homage to its alpine heritage. In France, it is ironically served to people skiing down hills rather than stomping up them. The traditional reblochon had been swapped out for brie, which worked well and is much easier to procure this side of the channel. The result was a potato-infused fondue, charmingly gooey and interspersed with chunks of refreshing cornichon, with the miso slightly lost in a dish that is already so hearty.

The lobster bisque was a highlight of our evening. Rich and creamy and generously studded with king prawns and Parisienne gnocchi, this dish was a true celebration of seafood. It wasn’t overflowing with lobster but that was made up for by the prawns, and the parcels of potato-pasta were ideal for absorbing the rich soup.

The Lobster bisque was a stand out choice – photo by Meg Houghton-Gilmour

Two tender porchetta rolls arrived sat atop a puddle of sweet potato puree. The combination of savoury pork, sweet potato and zaatar crackling was a delight both in terms of taste and texture.

The smoked garlic miso broth was less inspiring. Whilst the tofu had been treated well, the broth lacked the highly anticipated garlic punch and tasted not dissimilar to instant ramen. Enjoyable, but it struggled to hold its own alongside the other dishes.

A white chocolate parfait (£6) was a strong and sweet ending to the otherwise savoury affair. Sweet enough to satisfy the cravings but light and not overwhelming. The crunchy meringue and tart blackcurrant balanced the plate well.

The white chocolate parfait was a light and sweet ending to the meal – photo by Meg Houghton-Gilmour

Bank deserves to become well known for its creative flavours and colourful plates as beautifully curated as their Instagram feed.

The menu draws global influence with dishes inspired by Italy, France, Germany and Japan; which could be confusing, but could also be its USP.

With most other small plate restaurants there is a central cuisine or theme. Bank definitely has a central style but the food itself brings in lots of different ideas which could be due to experienced chefs who have the Ethicurean, the Ox and Seven Lucky Gods among their combined CV.

Bank is an ambitious restaurant and a statement of intent for Totterdown.

Bank, 107 Wells Road, Totterdown, Bristol, BS4 2BS
0117 452 7536 / www.bankbristol.com

Main photo: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

Read more: New cafe and bar brings speciality coffee and cocktails to Totterdown

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