Bangkok Joe’s – restaurant review

There’s a massive rack of ribs of some animal being hacked at just behind the shoulder of my lunch date in the corner of the open kitchen which lines the wall at the back of Bangkok Joe’s.

It’s only a small distraction as the waiter brings over two cold Chang beers from the fridges which line the other wall.

With the two service areas squeezed to the edges, the top floor of the restaurant, which sits underneath Genting Casino on Portwall Lane, opens out for the neat tables which sit on the whitewashed floor.

At the front end of the room, where we sit as light pours in from the windows behind, there is one continuous bench made from artificial grass from where you can sit and survey the people – and the meat hacking.

I’m hoping the chunks of meat will form the main part of the Thai roasted red pork with choi sum, moo sang sauce, soy egg and jasmine rice that’s on its way alongside a chicken panang curry.

It wouldn’t be a massive surprise. There’s a fresh feel – for a Thai restaurant – to both the decor and the menu here.

The bright and airy room is decorated with neat rows of golden bells on the white walls and birdcage light lamps hanging above.

A grilled steak salad (£12) stands out on the “Little Bigger” section of the menu, served with roasted chilli vinaigrette, herb greens, fresh chilli, seared mushrooms and toasted sweet rice powder.

The “Thai quickies” (I know, that’s what I thought) part of the menu, from which we choose our lunch, include mostly curries and grilled meat dishes, all coming in at precisely £7.

The small but punchy dishes at a very reasonable flat price show the hallmarks of head chef Som Miller’s first two eateries: Japanese ramen bar Sticks & Broth and Taiwanese street food bar Baowow, both on Baldwin Street.

Bangkok Joe’s – pitched as “the best of Thailand, with a modern French twist” – is a departure deeper into proper restaurant or bistro territory, with its own bar downstairs in the darker ground floor.

Our Thai quickies came promptly – or quickly, I suppose. The pork was sticky and sweet, sitting on a bed of fresh, steamed greens, next to a perfectly-formed dome of fluffy rice and with dollop of sweet and rich sauce on top.

There was also half a boiled egg. The yolk was just about runny still, but the whole thing was surprisingly cold, with a vinegary tang. An interesting addition, it was presumably supposed to be that way.

The whole dish was a little underwhelming, but beautifully presented and excellent value for £7. The panang was better, the grilled chicken pieces lifted from the sauce, in which there floated a whole red chili, with a nice spicy kick.

My date/former colleague seemed happy enough, despite still working at the Bristol Post. He rather liked the food too, I think.

As we headed downstairs we passed by a balcony from where you can look down into the bar area below.

At the bottom of the stairs head chef Som told us he is also behind the design, before adding that this next venture of his was an easy decision after the casino’s owner upstairs headhunted him to open up here.

Judging by the start he’s made and if his last two openings are anything to go by, Bangkok Joe’s shouldn’t be much of a gamble at all (sorry, couldn’t help myself).

Bangkok Joe’s, 2 Portwall Lane, Bristol, BS1 6NB
0117 922 1660

www.bangkokjoes.co.uk

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