Restaurants / Reviews
Caribbean Croft – restaurant review
Caribbean Croft, nestled close to Pieminister and Ceres on Stokes Croft, is the newest addition to the growing number of high-quality food establishments springing up an area that is becoming a mecca for the city’s food lovers. It’s the first business venture for Katrina Hall and Pete Innes.
Pete has been working as a chef in Bristol since 1987, when he moved here and “fell in love with the city.” After stints at many other establishments, he felt the time was right to open his own place. Katrina and Pete have worked together previously, and feel like they have landed on their feet with the premises they’ve managed to secure.
Many of the recipes on offer are attributed to Ms Cat – Pete’s mother-in-law. “She’s a lovely woman,” he says, standing amidst the stainless steel of the brand new kitchen they’ve installed. “We’ve cooked with each other for a long time, and we bounce off each other. They are all traditional Caribbean recipes, with a personal twist that Ms Cat and I have perfected.”
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Deceptively big on the inside, Caribbean Croft has a bar area at the front, restaurant tables that run the length of the building, and a dining area outside at the back that may well be a hidden gem, come the summer. Murals painted on the walls and floor and recycled wood cladding create a Caribbean beach-bar feel that doesn’t feel gimmicky or forced. The bar is framed by an impressive range of rums and wines, chosen to accompany the food and to make this a weekend venue to enjoy late, as well as a daytime and evening eatery.
On its opening day, tables were filled at lunchtime with several couples and a large party, and the open kitchen was bustling with activity, with the huge coal grill pumping out delicious smells. Cocktails were the order of the day: the Caribbean Croft was a dangerously drinkable blend of three rums, perfectly balanced with fruit juices and fresh lime.
The menu offered grilled options, and many Caribbean favourites, including curried goat and ackee and saltfish. Vegetarians are catered for, with an okra and chickpea curry that sounded great. I opted for the jerk chicken leg (£11), with a side order of fried festival (£1.50), plus some steamed vegetables (£2.50) that came recommended. Service was extremely friendly and attentive, and the food came promptly, piping hot.
The jerk chicken was tender and cooked to perfection, with a flavourful marinade that wasn’t overly spicy: rather, the heat came through gently at the end and was never overpowering. Chilli aficionados may be disappointed, but to my taste it was delicious. Accompanying the chicken was a generous portion of rice and peas, brightly coloured vegetables that were fresh and crunchy, and several pieces of fried plantain that were sweet and perfectly cooked. But the star of the dish, pulling all the elements together, was the homemade gravy: thick, salty and rich, with a hint of heat that made it lick-the-knife delicious.
The steamed vegetables surprised me by being by far the spiciest thing I ate, giving a hearty kick to the palate.
The fried festival – sweet dumplings – had a gentle sweetness that worked perfectly when mopping up the last of the jerk chicken gravy. Their crumbly texture felt like the perfect winter warmer comfort food to eat on a wet January afternoon.
The toe-tapping reggae added to a great atmosphere, accompanied by Pete’s excellent food and faultless service. Ms Cat deserves a great deal of praise for her delicious recipes, as do Katrina and Pete for their bravery in their new venture. I sincerely hope that they are able to carve out a niche and settle into their new home in Stokes Croft as it continues to improve and excite – helped, no doubt, by new businesses like theirs that will bring people into the area.
Caribbean Croft, 30 Stokes Croft, Bristol, BS1 3QD
0117 330 5298
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