Chido Wey, Old Market: ‘A place that lifts the spirits’ – restaurant review

It’s not nearly warm enough to eat outside one recent Tuesday evening but that doesn’t deter the diners happily huddled over their tacos on Old Market Street.

Wrapped up against the cold night air and sitting at tables and chairs, they talk animatedly over food nestled in red and white checked greaseproof paper just opposite the bus stops where people are queued silently waiting to go home.

Chido Wey first opened its doors in Old Market in October 2020, a tumultuous time in the hospitality sector, and has been quietly growing a loyal following ever since.

The vibrant little restaurant – billed as a Cali-Mexican kitchen and bar – is full inside and spilling out onto the pavement when we arrive for an 8.15pm booking.

Décor inside is unashamedly bold, with vibrant murals covering the yellow walls, more than one sombrero and cactus’ bringing a taste of Mexico. And the welcome is as bright and friendly as the relaxed ambience.

Already being embraced by Old Market’s diverse population and beyond, Chido Wey’s following speaks for itself but the team also work to raise awareness to support LGBT and gender non-conforming central Americans as they work towards better living conditions and opportunity.

The drinks menu includes an entire section dedicated to tequila and mezcal, as well as a handful of beer, cider and wine options and a good selection of cocktails. Margaritas can be bought by the glass for £8.50 each but when in doubt, opt for a jug for £26 that comfortably serves four.

With the jug soon distributed between the salt-topped glasses, attention turns to the food menu.

Chido Wey’s ample portions mean starters are not a necessity, but I defy you to resist some of the botanas (appetisers) on offer. Among them, pozole rojo, a smoked guajillo and chipotle broth (£6.90), and elote, grilled corn on the cobin spiced crème sprinkled with feta cheese, coriander and lime (£4.90).

Nachos are perfect for sharing – if you can bring yourself to do so

The nachos grande (£8.50) is an ideal sharer – if you can bring yourself to do so. Packed full of fresh corn chips, heaps of sour cream and guacamole, chipotle barbecue sauce, black beans, smoked cheese sauce and a generous bundle of fresh herbs and pickled jalapenos, this is the ultimate bowl of comfort food – with an added kick.

There are probably things that are more uplifting than zesty margaritas, a fresh bowl of nachos and good company, but right now it’s hard to think of what.

On the mains, Chido Wey keeps things nice and simple. There is a choice of two meat fillings and two vegetarian (both of which can be made vegan) which can be served in tacos or burritos.

The cubana, a slow-cooked flank steak, chimichurri, jalapeno aioli, feta, lime cured red cabbage, olives, pico de gallo and coriander combination (£10.90), is a favourite among the meat-eaters while the vex mex is the star of the veggie show.

The vex mex tacos were literally bursting at the seams with flavour

The latter offers a medley of cauliflower-pumpkin seed mince (sounds weird but it works) with the heady fusion of chipotle relish, chipotle mayo and a generous scattering of toppings, including a heap of coriander and rocket.

Packed into fresh, soft corn tacos, the contrasting flavours ricochet off each other in a joyful culinary party.

With tacos too packed to maintain their structural integrity, they come in a handy metal rack on top of red and white greaseproof paper (matching the tablecloths) to catch any extras.

One thing to make clear, the Chido Wey chefs love chipotle, the dominant taste of a meal that’s not lacking in strong flavours, but there are no complaints here as each deliciously smoky mouthful is devoured.

What it might lack in the subtlety of flavours, this little restaurant more than makes up for in generous quantities of fresh food and a warm, down to earth welcome. Chido Wey has plenty of heart and is a place that lifts the spirits even on the coldest of nights.

Chido Wey is a restaurant that lifts the spirits

Chido Wey, 25B Central Hall, Old Market Street, Bristol, BS2 0BH
0790 882 1157
www.chidowey.co.uk/

All photos: Ellie Pipe

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