Chilli Flake – restaurant review

Few people passing near the vicinity of the Banana Bridge in the past week can have failed to notice signs promoting the opening of Chilli Flake.

Advertised as a South Asian cuisine banquet restaurant, the family-run business is the new resident of the former Raj Mahal on Clarence Road, that was only recently earmarked for demolition by developers keen to build flats in its place.

Attempts at redevelopment of the patch of land nestled in the shadow of tower blocks have so far been refused and the small car park to the front of the building has a row of cars outside for the opening night of Chilli Flake on Wednesday.

A rather nondescript property from the outside, with a curious fake roof placed like a cap on its flat top, the building is Tardis-like inside, with tables as far as the eye can see and seemingly endless capacity.

A scattering of diners have turned out to taste the well-promoted wares of Chilli Flake, which has been opened by a family team who already have a number of restaurants in close proximity to Bristol, including a flagship Nailsea venue.

One friendly staff member leads us straight to a cosy booth seat, and the proprietor arrives soon after with drink and food menus and offers of poppadoms.

The banquet offer – not to be confused with a buffet – includes a starter, main course, rice or naan bread and side for £10.95 per person and is available every day of the week.

Choosing from the expansive menu is no easy feat, but the serving staff are only too keen to offer recommendations.

A couple sit down at a nearby table. “Supporting local businesses, that’s what we’re doing,” says the cheerful customer in a broad Bristolian accent, peering eagerly at the large menu.

There’s a hub of chatter in the vast restaurant as we sip wine and tuck into the poppadoms and dips – a pleasant spread that are all very mild in taste.

A huge screen behind the bar forms a centrepiece, its moving bubble-like light effects reminiscent of a giant lava lamp, creating a slightly surreal atmosphere that’s enhanced by a blue neon light at the far end of the room.

The starters arrive promptly and are not the most promising start.

Each comes with a basic side salad and portions are generous. The onion bhajis are crisp and filling, although a bit on the bland side. The falafels (admittedly an odd choice) look like flat pellets you might feed to a guinea pig and taste not dissimilar.

Before long, the rest of the banquet is wheeled over on a trolley – the fish karahi curry still sizzling – and each dish is placed carefully on the table.

The vegetable shatkora is a very mild taste, despite requesting recommendations for a spicy curry, but is pleasant enough and packed full of vegetables. The fish option is not discernibly different in flavour – just with added prawns (fish hasn’t been delivered yet).

The cheese naan bread (another recommendation) is hot, thick and ideal for dipping and the mushroom rice is light and flavoursome.

Sides of chana masala (spicy chick peas) and saag paneer (paneer cheese and spinach) complete the meal. The former is nice enough, but lacks much of a kick and the latter is a rather sickly-sweet flavour.

Overall, Chilli Flake seems a bit of a misnomer as all dishes served are exceptionally mild, the fusion of flavours hard to distinguish from one another. There can be no faulting the quantities though, as it proves impossible for two to get through the entire banquet. Eventually, we admit defeat and ask for the rest to takeaway.

It’s opening night and the card machine is yet to arrive – a fact that’s not disclosed until it’s time to pay. The proprietor happily agrees we can return to pay in full tomorrow and hands over chocolates to send us on our way.

There may be a slight emphasis on quantity over quality, but no one can deny the generosity or goodwill of this new venture.

Chilli Flake, 69 Clarence Road, Bristol, BS1 6RP
0117 9290 429 or 0117 9290 516
www.chilliflakebristol.co.uk

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