Dangun – restaurant review

Taking a seat on a recent lunchtime at Dangun, on a utilitarian plastic chair that feels like something from a government office, fitting hand-in-hand with the cheerful propaganda posters on the walls featuring farmworkers engaging in joyful backbreaking toil, this new Korean and Thai restaurant occupies the double-fronted space on St Nicholas Street that has stood empty since the sudden demise of Bagel Boy in July 2017.

Pushing open the front door, it’s striking just how little has changed from the days of this building’s previous tenant. A friendly member of staff stands in the usual place to greet diners, and the tables feel like they are in the same positions that they always were. The place feels light and bright and welcoming without being overly fussy. The major change is a freshly-painted mural featuring the tricolour taegeuk that acts as Dangun’s logo: a symbol associated with Korean Taoism and with colours representing humanity, heaven and earth.

As with Bagel Boy, there’s no table service here: choose from the simple menu of small dishes, sides and mains and then order at the counter.

After being tempted by the soft Korean tacos – your choice of chicken, beef, prawns or squash (two for £7) – and contemplating the fried dumplings (£5.50), I plump for a bowl of deopbap (literally translates as ‘covered rice’) with vegetables, edamame beans, pickled red onion and beef over a bed of white rice (£8).

My companion opts for the yellow curry noodles (£8), one of two Thai curry dishes on the menu, and we decide to share a side of traditional bulgogi – marinated stir-fried beef (£6.50).

A side of bulgogi: marinated stir-fried beef

The side comes out rapidly, delivered personally by the chef. The soft pieces of beef have picked up the flavour of a delicious marinade, and are accompanied by a fresh salad and homemade kimchi that is cool and refreshing, with a spicy kick that brings some excitement to the dish.

It’s a sizeable portion for two people, and sets the tone of the meal, as within no time our chef is back clutching vast deep black bowls, one full of spicy soup and noodles, and the other a riot of colourful vegetables blanketing the rice.

A huge bowl of deopbap – literally ‘covered rice’

The deopbap comes unseasoned, as is common in Korean eateries: the bottles of soya sauce and chilli on each dining table allow the customer to add flavour to suit their tastes, and is a necessity rather than a suggestion. Once seasoned, it’s a childish delight to mix the bowl up and coat the sticky rice in the bright vegetables and slow-cooked beef.

The sharpness of the pickled cabbage cuts through the blander elements and the crunchy carrot and beansprouts adds texture to the soft rice bed.

On a grey day, it’s a bowl of pure warmth and comfort. The flavours of my companion’s Thai curry are a little less well-balanced, but every drop has gone by the time we down our chopsticks – except for those left on his shirt to take back to the office.

Located only a few hundred yards from fellow Korean eatery TukTuck on St Stephen’s Street, Dangun is further evidence that this once-overlooked corner of Asia is getting its moment in the sun.

As kimchi becomes so ubiquitous you can pick it up from the supermarket or have it slathered on a burger at a number of trendy Bristol joints, let’s hope that this city is welcoming to this new wave of emigres. One thing is for sure: the food is certainly worth it.

Dangun, 39-41 St Nicholas Street, Bristol, BS1 1TP
0117 336 3301