Restaurants / Bristol
Desi Indian Tapas – restaurant review
Hopes of an Indian summer may be sinking with each passing day, but the latest culinary offering on Wells Road might just inject some sunshine into the lives of Bristolians.
Damp, grey and prematurely dark, the English weather is out in fine force this Monday evening, as the welcoming glow of Desi beckons diners inside.
Formerly The Duchess of Totterdown, the interior of the small restaurant has been cheerfully decked out in a burst of vibrant colours, pictures and soft lighting.
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A timber and metal bar sits in front of the far end, bare-bricked wall, hosting a collection of wine, spirits and chalkboards promising a selection of warming beverages, including a golden gingerbread chai latte.
Framed Bollywood posters and artwork sit beside a large print promoting Desi’s ‘Tapas the Indian way’ over a long wooden table and comfortable pink seating, where a table of four are wisely holed up, food and drinks flowing, as they overlook the rain spattered decking outside.
The remaining two tables inside are surrounded by tall, plastic stools and nestled next to a riotous mural featuring Indian deities, elephants and too many more subjects to mention.
A pot of crayons sits beside a handwritten menu and a bottle of chilled water is quickly produced.
With no time to waste on such a miserable Monday evening, this is quickly followed by generous glasses of wine. Decision-making here is kept to a minimal with a choice of red, white or rose, each priced at £4 a glass.
As the writing on the wall suggests, Desi specialises in Indian style tapas, with the menu offering a simple selection of small dishes to be shared and enjoyed through the course of the evening (or daytime) over a drink and catch up.
For three people, six dishes proved an ample amount, but there’s always chance to add to the order.
Hot, crisp and glistening with just a hint of oil, the poppadums (£2.50) make for a promising start, served with a selection of three dips.
But, the next serving of two samosas (£3) slightly misses the mark.
Homemade and fresh, the vegetable-filled pastries nevertheless fail to deliver the enticing bite of spice-infused crispness that’s anticipated, instead falling rather flat and relying on the accompanying chutney to pick them up.
Spirits lift with the arrival of the curry dishes, wafting a tantalising array of aromas. The fish curry (£6) is rich, light and leaves you wanting more, while the dal (£5) makes for a flavoursome and wholesome accompaniment.
The real winners are the two specials; the paneer and peas (£6) is a hearty dish, bursting with delicate flavours and textures, and the potato and spinach curry (£5) is a creamy, fragrant delight.
Each curry dish comes with rice and the medley makes for a satisfying and warming feast to be enjoyed with good company and perhaps a glass of two of house wine in an unhurried, down to earth environment. Desi also offers a separate lunchtime menu, complete with special deals, available by day.
Spotting birthday present wrapping remnants on the table, the cheerful proprietor brings the bill, along with a donut by way of a parting, celebratory gift.
Desi is currently cash-only, something that is written by the bar, but not mentioned when orders are taken, prompting a mad scramble to fish out money from the bottom of bags at the end of the meal.
Cosy and relaxed, Desi makes for a welcome addition to the growing collection of dining destinations on Wells Road.
A raised, wooden decking area expands the restaurant capacity on finer days where you can sit back, breath in the tempting aromas and, if you close your eyes and block out the ever-present sound of traffic, imagine you are in sunnier climes.
Desi, 198 Wells Road, Bristol BS4 2AX.
0117 933 2880
Read more: Dela – restaurant review
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