Koocha – restaurant review

Mezze dishes are made for sharing, so single-handedly working through a platter on a rainy Wednesday lunchtime feels pretty damn decadent.

And it is all too easy to get lost in the moment, as this new opening on Zetland Road in Redland offers a welcome escape from the bustle and noise of the busy road outside; relaxing music plays overhead, talk and laughter fills the air, drinks flow, and the food keeps on coming.

Koocha is also proving to be Bristol’s worst kept secret and tables keep filling up on what you might have expected to be a quiet midweek lunchtime only a few hundred yards from Gloucester Road.

It has been this way since the new venture threw open its doors for the first time last week, with a soft launch menu offering a variety of entirely plant-based, Persian-inspired dishes and cocktails.

This restaurant and bar is a true labour of love for Noda Marvani, who took on the site, formerly Number 10, from her dad when he decided it was time to call it a day. She reopened the premises with a new concept and name: Koocha means street or corner in Persian.

By all accounts the effort seems to be paying off.

Each customer is met with a warm welcome and a server clearly passionate about the food and knowledgeable too, who is only too happy to talk through options available and give recommendations.

The offer of four mezze dishes for £12 seems like a sensible choice for one. But alas, there is a reason they are meant for sharing and it’s not long before a veritable feast, fit for at least two, fills the table.

If ever there was a good spot for a leisurely lunch though, this is it – the vibe is relaxed and cheerful with hints of Mediterranean influence.

Patterned tiles line the walls behind the bar, pots of flowers peek out from a trestle and tables are set with candles that you can imagine create a warm, romantic atmosphere of an evening.

The mezze dishes at Koocha are made for sharing

One taste of the recommended aubergine dip, accompanied by a generous bowl of hot, fresh flatbread triangles, is enough to confirm that it more than lives up to expectations. Rich, warm and vaguely mysterious, the dish is delicious and incredibly moreish.

On to the koopa: deep-fried rice balls packed with Persian spices. Crisp on the outside and stodgy on the inside, each bite is delicately spiced, with sweet overtones provided by the juicy raisins packed within and hints of cinnamon. A light yoghurt-based dip, with more than a hint of garlic, provides a perfect accompaniment.

Be warned – they may not look like much, but they are incredibly filling.

The crunchy spiced cauliflower is a lighter, and even tastier option. Wonderfully simple, the vegetables are coated in a blend of spices, roasted and served with a fragrant yellow dip, laced with herbs and pomegranate seeds. The flavours are a delectable blend of warm spices and fruit. The only thing the dish lacks is much in the way of crunch.

A zesty salad shirazi balances the meal out, with yet more refreshing pomegranate seeds and fresh ingredients leaving a pleasant tang on the tongue.

Koocha occupies a site on Zetland Road that for 12 years was Number 10

The Koocha chefs are still busy perfecting their recipes, making little tweaks here and there, but they are already delivering a winning combination of good, hearty, wholesome food, service with a smile and an enticing selection of cocktails, signature gins or soft drink options.

Even the latter bring something a little bit different to the table and the refreshing pomegranate juice (£2.50) is served with pomegranate seeds floating within.

It is a venue just made for a long, leisurely meal with friends. Take advantage of the two for £10 cocktail offers, share food, let the conversation flow and enjoy. There is also ample outside seating for lazy summer nights.

That it is vegan is by-the-by really. It’s a plus for those who follow a plant-based diet, but definitely shouldn’t put off even the meat-lovers in Bristol.

And this is only the beginning for Koocha, with plans to expand the menu and introduce desserts, teas and coffees in the near future.

This little corner of the city could just be the go-to place of the summer and beyond.

Koocha, 10 Zetland Road, Redland, Bristol, BS6 7PL
www.koochavegan.com

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