Restaurants / Reviews
Mui?o – restaurant review
A young man dressed in a crisp white shirt nervously pours his date a glass of wine underneath the warm lighting in Muiño.
Emerging from his kitchen, chef Steve Thomas makes sure that the couple are enjoying their meal and he fills the small restaurant on Cotham Hill with friendly laughter.
Nearby, four friends tuck in to the array of small plates that cover their table, taking mouthfuls in between busy chatter.
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This relaxed atmosphere is exactly what owners Emily and Alex Miller had envisioned before opening Muiño. Their aim was to combine a relaxing atmosphere with good food and wine and that’s what they have achieved.
Simple yet sophisticated, a single flower decorates each table and soft hues of blue and grey line the walls. Mood lighting gives the restaurant a cosy warmth, as does the wooden cladding which Alex’s brother in law contributed to their bar.
With family at the heart of their business, the pair named the restaurant after their favourite bar in Galicia on the north-western tip of Spain.
“Muiño means mill in Gallego, so it fits with the name Miller too,” Alex explains.
The Spanish theme flows into the menu which has Mediterranean aspects, with a twist. Diners have the choice of either traditional small plates or decadent gourmet burgers.
On one side of the menu, tapas-like plates are divided neatly into nibbles, vegetarian, meat and ‘from the sea’. Dishes include mushroom ragout on toasted brioche (£5), jerk chicken wings (£5), and salt and pepper squid with sweet chilli sauce (£5.50).
For those looking for something a bit more substantial, the burgers here are unlike anywhere else. The chicken burger (£9.50) is made up of chicken breast and chicken croqueta, which is also offered as a small plate, and the pulled pork burger (£9.50) is topped with a toffee apple fritter.
I decide to choose a lighter option of three small plates. Grilled onglet steak with sea salt (£7.50), garlic prawns with herb butter (£6) and chicken croquetas (£5).
The prices of these dishes are decidedly cheaper if you arrive before 7pm, when you can get three plates for £12.50.
The onglet steak was beautifully juicy and seasoned just enough that the saltiness wasn’t overpowering, the garlic prawns were melt in the mouth and the chicken croquetas were full of flavour, crisp on the outside with a tasty sauce inside.
With friendly staff, cosy décor and high quality food, it’s a great new arrival to Cotham Hill.
With Bellita, Bravas, Corks, Pasta Loco and now Muiño, this is not just one of the best roads for food and drink in Bristol, but stakes a strong claim to be one of the best roads for food and drink in the UK.
Muiño, 32 Cotham Hill, Bristol, BS6 6LA
0117 907 7112
www.facebook.com/muinobristol/
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