Ramen Zen, Filton Avenue: ‘High on my list to return to’ – restaurant review

Saturday night was the first time I have eaten out on Filton Avenue, which is not widely reputed as a food destination. In fact, Filton Avenue is perhaps not much of a destination for anything, unless you’re on the hunt for a bargain booze or a betting shop.

Nevertheless, the combination of being in a big residential area with relatively little immediate competition could bode very well for Ramen Zen, which is the latest addition to the area.

I visited Ramen Zen the same week that Cardiff’s Matsudai enjoyed national press attention; another ramen restaurant in one of the lesser known suburbs of our neighbouring city. Thus, I was buoyant with optimism that Ramen Zen could be the culinary experience to keep me coming back for the free parking and views over the rooftops of north Bristol.

Most of Ramen Zen’s interior could be described as modest, with the exception of the TV which would be better suited to adjectives like ‘large’, ‘unnecessary’ or ‘thoroughly distracting’.

We ordered miso soup (£1.99), goma salad (£4.30), karaage chicken (£5.50), tonkotsu ramen with chashu pork belly (£12.99) and miso ramen with chicken katsu (£12.99).

The karaage chicken was not dissimilar to being given a pair of knock-off Nikes or bogus Beats for Christmas.

Initial joy quickly gave way to confusion, for instead of thigh they had used suspiciously chewy breast, sliced it for dramatic effect and with a flavour profile that might be the envy of Captain Birdseye. It was neither unpleasant nor what I’ve come to expect from karaage chicken.

Goma salad was more inspiring; chlorophyllic tangles of sesame-spotted seaweed and cucumber that had been seasoned with good taste and experience.

Is it karaage chicken or katsu chicken? Sadly it was not memorable enough to bother finding out

Those concerned about the salad shortage should take notes. Seaweed is the future!

The miso soup imparted about as much flavour as a thrice-used teabag. There was nothing wrong with it, but put it this way; my dining partner visibly deflated when she realised they had used the exact same stuff as a base for her ramen.

In fact, the chicken ‘katsu’ that came with her main was also the exact same as the chicken ‘karaage’. Poor Rachael almost managed the impressive feat of ordering the exact same dishes twice under entirely different names.

The best thing about the miso soup was the bowl it was delivered in

I on the other hand, had chosen more wisely (sorry, Rachael) and was rewarded with a rich, creamy tonkotsu for my main.

It wasn’t the best bowl of tonkotsu I’ve ever had but it was thoroughly enjoyable, once you’d accepted the slightly arid pork it was topped with.

Rachael’s enjoyment of her main was limited by the fact she had pretty much already eaten it as a starter

The noodles delivered a satisfying bite and the other toppings had been treated with care. If the pork had been better I would be recommending you head to Filton Avenue.

It is after all, served by not one, but two, of Bristol’s non-existent buses.

Few things beat a good bowl of ramen on a cold winter’s day. Even fewer things beat an excellent bowl of ramen, which this aspires to but had not yet achieved

We left to the sound of onions being chopped (from the TV, not the kitchen) and pondered how Ramen Zen might fare if it was in BS1. Is it fair to judge a restaurant on Filton Avenue by the same standards as those in the centre, where competition is fiercer?

The honest answer is: I don’t know. If we were to go by Ofsted standards, I would say Ramen Zen is a ‘good’ restaurant when compared to local competitors, but if it were picked up and plonked on Baldwin Street, for example, I would say it required improvement.

We don’t have a wealth of ramen restaurants in Bristol though, so it’s good to have another in the market and this one does seem authentic.

There was a steady stream of clientele over the hour or so we were there, which leaves me to conclude that Ramen Zen will be a successful and welcome addition to Filton Avenue.

Plus if they’re able to make improvements to their karaage chicken and chashu pork at the same rate as they refilled Rachael’s green tea, they’ll be high on my list to return to.

Ramen Zen, 365 Filton Avenue, Horfield, Bristol, BS7 OBD
www.ramenzen.uk

All photos: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

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