Roots Lounge – restaurant review

In a city that is increasingly leaning towards a plant-based diet, the promise of the best vegan breakfast in Bristol is appealing in a way that would have been unheard of 10 years ago.

The question is, how dedicated does one need to be to track down this meat-free kick-starter?

Roots Lounge finally opened last week on St Nicholas Street after a long build-up, fraught with unexpected obstacles and finally a successful crowdfunding campaign.

So, after such a turbulent start, it is taking life at a relaxed pace next door to the most-definitely-not-vegan Chomp.

At 9am on Thursday morning, the door is still firmly shut, lights off and the promise of the ‘best vegan breakfast in Brizzle’ is tauntingly blaring out in bright italics on the window pane.

The decision to resist heading elsewhere in favour of returning to this elusive new opening a bit later is rewarded with the promising signs of cheerful boards positioned outside. The rush of warmth inside is met with an equally warm greeting.

The interior of this spacious cafe and restaurant is homely and welcoming – comfy chairs waiting ready at solid wood tables, while a platter of vegan iced buns sit temptingly on a solid counter top.

Vases of fresh flowers add flashes of vibrant colour amidst the natural colour scheme and the overall effect is wonderfully calming – even on someone who has been ravenously pacing outside eager and ready for a vegan breakfast.

Roots Lounge is in a former hairdressers on St Nicholas Street, next door to Chomp

Roots Lounge is a family-affair and this shines through, with the easy-going husband and wife team greeting each customer, delivery person – or indeed anyone walking through the door – as a treasured guest.

Coffee and water are offered straight away – the former with a choice of vegan milk options – with the oat milk proving an excellent choice to go with the excellent brew – supplied by Bristol Twenty in Avonmouth.

From a wide variety of plant-based menu options, I plump for the full vegan works (£6.95) and settle back, much-needed coffee in hand, to soak up the atmosphere as the owners keep up a friendly patter of conversation and busy themselves putting the finishing touches to the enterprise that they have waited so long to open.

The bubble and squeak is not quite ready it turns out – news that comes with profuse apologies and the offer of a choice of alternatives with the breakfast.

Requesting a second coffee, I order the Memorial Blend, named in honour of Bristol Twenty founder, Roy Ireland, who passed away early last year from a third bought of cancer.coffee. The brew is as delicious as the first, served in a nice red mug with matching saucer.

There is no further delay on the breakfast which arrives promptly, hot and plentiful.

Every item of food at Roots Lounge is vegan-friendly

Toast is thick and fresh, glistening with melted spread (alas no butter, being purely vegan).

The advertised beans turn out to be a homemade medley of beans, served in a deliciously tangy, rich tomato sauce. Sliced avocado – thoughtfully served on the side – more than makes up for the lack of bubble and squeak.

The tofu scramble is light and unusual, if not exactly bursting with flavour. While it is still difficult to find substitute, meat-free sausages and black pudding that come close to the real thing – with many non-meat eaters preferring to forego them entirely – this was not a bad effort and certainly made for a hearty breakfast dish.

Mushrooms were cooked to perfection and a generous mound of hot tomatoes rounded of a satisfying meal.

Early hiccups at this new restaurant only add to its charm

While this new entirely vegan independent is another sign of changing times in Bristol, there is not a hint of pretension and any early hiccups only add to the charm.

The menus are not yet printed and pictures are yet to be put up, but there is no doubt that Roots Lounge is a labour of love that is rich with possibilities – with hopes for a alcohol licence in the future ready for evening opening.

A customer who already seems to be a regular arrives and shares some good news that is met with delighted congratulations. It’s clear this is a true community destination where all are welcome (all that is who are prepared to forego eating animal-based products).

The jury is still out on whether it yet deserves the title of best vegan breakfast in the city, but for a thoroughly enjoyable dining experience – and a laid back one at that – this is certainly a go-to spot.

Roots Lounge, 6-8 St Nicholas Street, Bristol, BST 1UQ.
www.rootsloungebristol.com

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