Restaurants / Reviews
Spitfire
It may be called Spitfire, the archetypal British symbol of the Second World War, but this new restaurant is pure South Africa crossed with Americana.
Overlooking the Floating Harbour opposite Brunel’s Buttery, Spitfire draws potential customers in with two fires lit on its outside seating area.
There is something deeply primaeval about the smell of fire. And fire is done very well here, with two huge smokers inside the open kitchen.
America is well-represented with Texan rib tips (£7.50) among the “fire starters”, and Texan pork (£11.85) and St Louis barbecue (£12.55 for a half or £17.55 for a whole) which features baby backs or spare ribs smoked “low and slow” over apple wood and hickory.
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Cross continents and you will find the Boerewors roll (£8.55), a traditional South African beef sausage served with a homemade spicy vegetable relish known as chakalaka sauce.
South African reds and whites dominate the wine list, while closer to home is represented well by the rest of the drinks selection with ales and cider on tap and in bottles from Bath Ales, other bottles from Thatchers and Orchard Pig, and coffee from Extract.
Continuing Bristol’s current love for dude food, Spitfire fits somewhere between Grillstock and Three Brothers.
My hog roll (£7.55) was a Bratwurst sausage served with pulled pork, not as good as Grillstock, but with chips better than Three Brothers and a generous dollop of cheese sauce.
Food is served in a mess tin. Great in theory, but not so great if you would prefer to use a knife and fork.
Spitfire occupies a big restaurant with upwards of 100 covers. Most recently Jack’s, its upstairs is called The Pavilion and is owned by Bristol City Council who rent it out for events.
Just so long as event attendees don’t mind fire and smoke. The fire brigade were recently called to Grillstock’s new restaurant in Bath after a passer-by smelled burning.
A corrugated iron bar is the central feature of Spitfire, whose name is spelled out in bright lights both outside and inside.
Part of an old Evening Post yellow A-board forms the decoration on one wall alongside album sleeves by artists like Elvis and The Doors.
There are also bright orange banquettes, iron bar stools, mismatched chairs and ropes and pulleys giving a slight nautical theme.
All nice touches, but the view itself is enough – one of the best in town, especially at night when the water seems to twinkle and now accompanying some of the best dude food in town.
Spitfire, 1 Hannover Quay, Bristol, BS1 5JE
0117 925 4585
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