Restaurants / Reviews

The Apsley

By Martin Booth  Tuesday Sep 30, 2014

Number 59 Apsley Road has seen more businesses come and go than most in recent years.

After a major refurbishment which has seen the outside seating area transformed into a new conservatory, this restaurant and cafe just off Blackboy Hill has reopened as The Apsley.

It’s a shame that the outside seating area has gone as it used to be a real sun trap which would have been ideal over the Bank Holiday weekend.

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With last week’s rain the owners were probably happy with their decision – although there were still quite a few snags being fixed when I visited and the new front door was very tough to budge.

The sign over that door says ‘Coffee + Kitchen’, but my requests for a flat white and then a macchiato were met with dismissiveness by a waiter who reeked of cigarettes.

So I made do with a latte, one that you can find much better made by Lashings over the other side of Whiteladies Road.

A clue to The Apsley owners’ Portuguese is a rooster of Barcelos as part of the decoration in a display cabinet.

The menu here has a Middle Eastern slant, with the pick of the breakfast options a shakshouka (£7.50), poached eggs in a spiced tomato and pepper sauce, merguez sausages and sesame seeded barbari bread, with an extra option of feta cheese if required.

For lunch, there are homemade hummus and falafels, and zartar bread (all £2.50), with tumeric, sumac and lime grilled chicken for £5.50, and chargrilled marinated haloumi, chicken and lamb skewers for £9.50.

It’s another roll of the dice for 59 Apsley Road. Sort out some of the initial teething problems and it could just outlast its predecessors.

The Apsley, 59 Apsley Road, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 2SW

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