Restaurants / Reviews

The Lock Up – restaurant review

By Martin Booth  Tuesday Mar 15, 2016

Formerly an air conditioning centre, the arrival of The Lock Up on Church Road in Redfield is to those who care about this sort a thing possibly a further indication of creeping gentrification into east Bristol.

With that barometer of up-and-comingness Grounded located directly opposite since 2008, and Southville Deli choosing to open only their second shop and cafe just down the road, this is clearly an area on the move; as evidenced by steeply rising house prices.

Fixed gear bicycle shop Dropouts Cycle Club have also moved right next door to The Lock Up from their original home on Stokes Croft – yet another sure sign of slowly changing demographics.

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The Lock Up is a new all-day affair with a head chef formerly at Yurt Lush next to Temple Meads preparing modern British food.

Soothing Spanish guitar was on the stereo on a recent Tuesday lunchtime, perfect for a baby fast asleep being pushed back and forth in her buggy.

On a round table made out of an old wooden cable reel, a 50th birthday party is just coming to an end, bunting and cards next to a small cactus table decoration.

More flowers are balanced on top of two battered old suitcases. The back bar held together by scaffolding poles. Exposed breezeblocks meanwhile are either a design feature or perhaps a sign that a little bit more decoration still needs doing.

Thankfully the well-known mural by Acerone remains on a wall that will soon overlook a small outside seating area underneath a wooden pergola which for now is hemmed in by more of those breezeblocks.

Back inside in the cosy downstairs dining area, a Welsh rare bit (£4.50) came with a delightful hint of stout, the mature cheddar cheese almost dripping off the poppy seed bloomer and served with two generous slabs of smoked streaky bacon.

Elsewhere, other dishes such as a Lock Up burger and chips (£9.50) and poached egg and Hollandaise on toast with smoked salmon (£4.50) were also being polished off.

Brunch here is served from 10am until 3pm. Dinner is from 6pm to 10pm with main course options including a roasted pumpkin and polenta gnocchi (£8), smoked fish chowder (£12 – also among the starters for £5.60) and chargrilled rump steak (£13.50).

Good food in Bristol continues to head east. Expect The Lock Up to be appearing in estate agent brochures extolling the virtues of Redfield very soon.

The Lock Up, 182 Church Road, Redfield, Bristol, BS5 9HX
0117 329 0707

www.thelockupbristol.com

 

Photos by Darren Shepherd

Read more: Kale & Kettle – restaurant review

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