Fashion / knitwear
Creating sustainable knitwear with natural dyes
Ria Burns has been running her own brand, Ria Burns Botanical Knitwear, from her tiny studio in Easton on a part-time basis since 2015. She makes all the garments using a range of vintage knitting machines, and has recently began to experiment with natural dyes, often using plants she has foraged herself.
“My nan taught me to knit when I was a teenager and it quickly became an obsession,” says Ria. “I studied fashion at uni and decided in my final year to specialise in knitwear and turn my hobby into a job. I’m mostly self-taught on knitting machines and have quite a collection of them at my studio.”
Left: the Anita jumper (£200) is named after Ria’s nan, who sadly passed away earlier this year. Right: the Grace skirt (£150)
Knitwear and dye samples in Ria’s studio in Easton
Ria has recently completed a master’s degree in textiles design at Bath Spa University, that saw her design and make her own collection of sustainable women’s knitwear and accessories, developing her skills in the techniques of natural plant-dyed British wool.
is needed now More than ever
“My interest in natural dyeing started with a workshop at Bristol Textile Quarter,” explains Ria. “When I started my master’s I really focused my work and began to research their use, and how they can be a sustainable alternative to using chemical dyes.”
The new collection champions natural hues and the qualities of British wool, incorporating vibrant pops of colour from the plants.
Ria has developed natural plant dye techniques, which she uses to colour her British wool
Gone are the preconceptions that natural dyes are for washed-out hippies; plant dyes actually produce bold, vivid colours. Bright yellow hues from weld flowers, deep blues from indigo flowers, rich dark browns from walnuts and even a beautiful dusky pink from avocado skins: these dyes couldn’t be any more vibrant.
“The collection was designed for my final master’s project, which showcases the diversity of knitting by using different knitting machines and hand-knitting techniques, and the range of colours that can be achieved with natural dyes,” says Ria. “My favourite outfit has to be the jumper with hand-knitted sleeves and space-dyed skirt. The hand-dyed ombre scarves have been proving popular too.”
The Beton jumper with hand-knitted sleeves (£400)
Left: Ombre scarves (£50) are machine-knitted before being dip-dyed by hand. Right: fine-knit dress and brown stripe wrap dyed from walnuts, both from Ria’s master’s collection
“The main inspiration for my work is conflict between the natural and the manmade; things like bright yellow lichen growing over grey concrete,” explains Ria. “I’ve always got my phone out to snap photos of the world around me.
“My knitwear is the opposite of fast fashion: the dyeing process alone can take several days. I aim to create classic and statement pieces that are designed for longevity and made to be cherished, looked after and passed on.”
Ria combines different knitting techniques, playing around with scale as well as colour in this oversized hand-knitted cardigan, part of the master’s collection and only available on commission
“Knitwear, and particularly wool knitwear, is pretty seasonal, so I aim to make one full collection a year in Autumn/Winter and add a few pieces here and there throughout the year. I’m currently working on some super-chunky hand-knit hats, which I plan to release in a couple of weeks,” says Ria.
She produces everything in-house, creating limited edition small batches using zero-waste methods: even left-over yarns are used to make earrings, while swing tags go in the compost bin to feed her plants. This is working sustainable and organic business just proves what can be done with a simple and inspiring idea, which is working well here in Bristol.
“I love the diversity in the Bristol scene and that there are so many independents here, there’s a real buzz,” Ria says. “Within the scene there’s a lot of sustainable brands such as Antiform and Tamay and Me, which is amazing to see.”
Keen to expand her slow fashion business, Ria has set up a crowdfunder to help her with a bigger, more efficient studio, a showroom and a productive working garden to grow her own plants for dyeing wool. By harvesting her own plants, some of which can take years to mature, Ria will have complete control and knowledge of her plants, reducing her impact on the planet and celebrating the essence of slow fashion.
The Caloplaca cowl (£40) is dyed with weld for the yellow colourway then over-dyed with indigo to give the bright green. The dark grey is the natural colour of the wool.
With the winter looming over us, what does Ria recommend we wrap ourselves up in from her own cuddly, collection, and how should we wear it? “My favourite piece at the moment is the Grace skirt,” she says. “I’ve worn it a few times already this season, either out to dinner with a smart top and boots or in the daytime with a hoodie and hi-tops.
“The cowls are a great layering piece for colder weather too as they don’t have the bulk of a scarf but will still keep you cosy.”
Discover more from Ria Burns Knitwear at www.riaburns.co.uk/shop. Ria’s crowdfunder campaign is running until October 18.
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