48 hours in the Lake District

If 48 hours in the Lake District left me with one overriding feeling, it was that I need to spend a lot more time amid the dramatic landscape of undulating hills and vast bodies of water, which are truly humbling. No wonder some of Britain’s greatest writers came from here.

Despite desperately wanting to stay longer, a couple of days allowed for enough time to get a taste of almost everything the national park has to offer, including a freezing and very brief submersion in Grasmere.

There are many wonderful places to stay in the lakes for all budgets. Having spent the winter cooped up inside and desperate for a sense of adventure, we opted to combine our travel and accommodation and borrowed a home on wheels from Bailey. Bailey are based in South Bristol, where they have a large factory dedicated to supplying much of the UK with motorhomes and caravans.

The motorhome may look large but it was surprisingly easy to drive – photo: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

The Adamo 75-4I is designed for four travellers which we felt would be a little bit of a squeeze, but for two it was just right. Having never driven a motorhome before we were a little nervous, particularly about the narrow lanes of the lakes, but being automatic the Adamo was surprisingly easy to drive. It was the perfect way to enjoy the feeling of camping in the great outdoors while not losing the feeling in our toes at night and waking up soggy in the morning.

We parked our little piece of Bristol in Skelwith Fold caravan park, where the staff are the epitome of Northern friendliness and were incredibly helpful. Skelwith Fold is about a 40 minute walk from Ambleside.

What to do in the lakes:

• Eat! The lakes are home to some of the best restaurants in the country. The Michelin Guide has a comprehensive list of recommendations, but some of the most notable are L’Enclume, Allium at Askham Hall, Dog and Gun Inn, The Cottage in the Wood and Old Stamp House. We enjoyed a ten course tasting menu at the latter for £95 per person, which takes you on an edible journey through the lakes inspired by Cumbria’s heritage, landscape and people.

Crab tart with avocado mousse. A taste and textural sensation – photo: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

Every dish at The Old Stamp House is inspired by the surrounding area – photo: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

• Hike the hills. If you’re feeling particularly brave, climb to the top of Scafell Pike, England’s tallest mountain. The hike is about eight miles and will take around six and a half hours. We opted for a slightly easier challenge and climbed Loughrigg Fell, which offers stunning views over Grasmere and Windemere. We walked from Skelwith Fold on a circular route which took us about four and a half hours.

The view of Windermere from Loughrigg Fell – photo: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

• Relax in a spa. After all that walking you’ll need it! The lakes are home to many hotels with excellent spas, that you can visit for a few hours and indulge in the thermal waters and refresh your sore limbs in the saunas. We visited Hotel Spa based at The Swan at Newby Bridge, which offers a great value package of two hours in the spa garden for £30 per person. After your ice bucket experience, warm up in the hot tub while enjoying views of the hills.

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• Visit the home of Wordsworth. The Wordsworth museum and Dove Cottage offer an incredible insight into the mind and life of William Wordsworth, who wrote a significant part of his innovative poetry while living on the edge of Grasmere lake. Discover what inspired him, how he lived and stories from the journal of his sister Dorothy. Equally essential while you’re in Grasmere is a visit to Sarah Nelson’s historic Grasmere Gingerbread Shop which sells ‘quite simply the best gingerbread in the world’. Having now tried it, I cannot dispute that claim.

The gingerbread is also beautifully packaged, making it an ideal gift to give someone or just a reminder of your trip – photo: Meg Houghton-GIlmour

• Take a boat trip. While in the lakes, there are two ways to admire the vast stretches of water. One is from the top of a mountain, which truly gives you an appreciation of the scale and drama of the landscape, and the other is from the water itself, on a boat. Windermere Lake Cruises offer trips from Ambleside, Bowness, Lakeside and Brockhole. The Freedom of the Lake ticket allows for maximum flexibility – take as many boats as you like in a 24 hour period. Alternatively, if you’d like to explore the lake on your own terms, you can rent motorboats or rowing boats from next to Ambleside pier.

A cruise on a boat is the perfect way to see England’s biggest lake – photo: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

• Swim! Cold water swimming is all the rage now and after a very brief dip in Grasmere lake, it’s easy to see why. The exhilaration is comparable to roller coasters – or at least it is once you get out. While we were in there, for all of 20 seconds, all we could think about was how cold our feet were. Wetsuits are strongly recommended. Take good care when open water swimming. Read local cold water swimming advice.

Our dip in the lake was perishingly cold but certainly invigorating – photo: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

• Visit the National Trust site Wray Castle on the shores of Windermere. Wray Castle played an important role in the development of the National Trust and was the holiday home of Beatrix Potter as a child. It’s home to church-like interiors which you can wander around, a photography exhibition and a cafe.

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• Follow in the footsteps of Beatrix Potter. Beatrix Potter is one of the most famous children’s authors of all time, with her characters including Peter Rabbit, Benjamin Bunny and Jemima Puddleduck. There are lots of places in the lakes with connections to Potter, who frequently holidayed there and purchased land in the area before settling down and becoming a sheep farmer. Perhaps the most exciting is the World of Beatrix Potter in Bowness-on-Windermere, which is an ideal indoor attraction for families. A full map of Beatrix Potter attractions can be found at Visit Lake District.

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For more information before a visit to the lakes go to visitlakedistrict.com

Main photo: Rachael Baker

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