Travel / Travel
A weekend in West Lulworth
Wind whistles above salt water-soaked faces gazing out over Durdle Door on a blustery Saturday afternoon.
There’s something particularly magical about the coast outside of the summer season when the elements are out in full force, the landscape dramatic and there are less crowds to contend with.
That said, this world-famous beauty spot in West Lulworth is a far cry from the abandoned beach resorts of other UK destinations in mid-October, with the cafes of Lulworth Cove still bustling amid a steady flow of visitors.
is needed now More than ever
Here, there’s time for a quick sandwich pitstop in the Boat Shed café overlooking the beach before embarking on the walk from Lulworth Cove to the craggy cliffs of Durdle Door.
It’s a relatively easy walk from Lulworth Cove to Durdle Door, with breathtaking scenery – photo: Ellie Pipe
The walk, which is approximately two miles, takes you over a steep but well-paved path with breathtaking coastal scenery and – at least on this particular day – a steady driving wind that makes it slower going than usual but totally worth it.
Just a stone’s throw away is the impressive Lulworth Castle and park, which we regrettably don’t have time to visit on this whistlestop trip.
Possibly the only thing that can top a blustery autumn walk by the sea is having a cosy pub to hole up in afterwards and here The Castle Inn comes into its own.
With its low, thatched roof and blue-painted windows, this picture-postcard inn dates back to 1660, making it one of the oldest in Dorset. Inside, there’s a steady hub of cheerful chatter and a warm welcome from the landlord from behind the bar where he’s pouring out one of the many Butcombe ales that are on tap here.
The Castle Inn is a picture-postcard pitstop in West Lulworth – photo: Butcombe Brewing Co
Having booked a room (available from £120 per night), we are swiftly checked in, handed a large key and directed across the scrubbed flagstone floor – ducking under the well-padded low-hanging beams – to upstairs.
Our end room – one of 12 boutique rooms, each named after a local landmark – is exquisitely renovated in a way that is cosy, rustic and in keeping with the historic inn, but with understated luxury.
The attention to detail is impressive – from the jar of freshly-baked cookies next to the tea and coffee selection to the tiny scented spray to aid sleep next to the pillow, it’s all too easy to switch off, unwind and let the healing powers of a break away by the sea wash over you.
The attention to detail inside the rooms in the Castle Inn is impressive – photo: Ellie Pipe
The only thing that could entice us to leave this blissfully relaxing room is the lure of food, with tantalising scents wafting up from the kitchen below whetting the appetite for a hearty pub meal.
The Castle Inn does pub food with an upmarket twist – with sharing platters, salads, burgers, pub classics and steaks all featuring on the menu that offers a reasonable selection for vegans and vegetarians.
As a pub from the same stables as The Ostrich, The Cottage and The Whitmore Tap in Bristol, Butcombe Ales feature heavily on the drinks menu, which also offers no shortage of wine and spirit options, as well as a whole page dedicated to non-alcoholic tipples.
Opting for a full-bodied malbec (£7.70) and non-alcoholic elderflower gin and tonic (£7.50) respectively, we contentedly sit and savour our drinks from a polished table in the corner of the bustling pub while we wait for the feast that is to follow.
The soup is an inspired medley of rich creaminess and zest – photo: Ellie Pipe
First up, a wild mushroom soup, served with miso-roasted chestnuts, tarragon and grilled sourdough (£6.50) – an inspired medley of rich creaminess and zest that leaves you wanting more. The devilled whitebait and calamari, served with bloody mary ketchup and aioli (£7.50), is lightly battered with a satisfying crunch and a good balance of flavours.
The pie of the week (steak & ale), served with seasonal greens, proper gravy and chips (or mash if you prefer) (£14.50) takes home the crown for this meal. The ultimate post-walk pub fodder, it is a flawless dish from the fresh, crusty pastry to the lightly seasoned greens and perfectly fried chips.
The pie takes home the crown – photo: Ellie Pipe
The golden beetroot Waldorf salad – served with stilton, conference pear, walnuts, watercress and pickled celery (£10.50) – has a tough job trying to live up to that. Nevertheless, it is an inventive and satisfying combination that is further enhanced with a side of those moorish thick cut chips (£4.25).
It’s a long time before we can contemplate desserts, but this isn’t the time to hold back (especially after all of that fresh air and walking) so two puddings are duly ordered with the final drinks of the evening.
It was an ambitious feat. The dark chocolate & espresso brownie, served with cherry compote and Baileys icecream (£7.50) is as generous as it is indulgent. We make it halfway through before carefully wrapping up the remains to take away.
The autumnal fruit and almond crumble, which we opt for with icecream instead of vanilla custard (£6.95), is almost a meal in its own right and brings the feast to a satisfyingly sweet finish.
Waking to the distant sound of seagulls and a hearty, freshly-cooked breakfast, we commiserate on only booking one night as we regretfully leave our cosy refuge.
The Castle Inn offers a hearty, freshly-cooked breakfast – photo: Ellie Pipe
With the winds of yesterday gone and weak sunshine making an appearance, it’s perfect conditions to go paddle boarding in Lulworth Cove and a chance to soak up some more sea air before making the journey back to Bristol.
When conditions are right, Lulworth Cove is the perfect spot for paddleboarding – photo: Ellie Pipe
Book a stay at The Castle Inn via: www.butcombe.com/the-castle-inn-dorset/
Get more inspiration about a visit to Dorset via: www.visit-dorset.com/
Main photo: Ellie Pipe
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