A winning day at Cheltenham races

Two miles north of the town centre, Cheltenham racecourse sits at the foot of the steep Cotswold Hills, creating a natural amphitheatre that amplifies the roar of the crowd as the first race begins. Though horseracing has taken place in the area since the mid 1800s, it was in 1911 that Cheltenham Festival was established at its current home, Prestbury Park. The programme of events, this year taking place from March 12-15, offers 28 nail-biting races across four days and is attended by 260,000.

The Festival generates an estimated £1bn and for those winning big the only choice for accommodation is Ellenborough Park. Travel a mile towards the hills and down a sweeping drive to find the converted 15th century country house, with a heated outdoor pool, spa facilities and even its own blend of gin. From the manicured front lawn, views stretch over the fields to the huge Princess Royal Stand at the racecourse, and during race week guests will be shuttled by 4×4 through the helicopter pad and into the grandstand.

The charming 15th century Ellenborough Hotel has an outdoor heated pool and views of the racecourse

Halfway between the racecourse and the town centre is the green expanse of Pitville Park. Boats can be hired from the pretty mock-Tudor boathouse and taken out on the lower portion of the lake, while the upper lake was designed as part of Pleasure Gardens dating from the Regency period. Watching over the gardens is the grand colonnaded Pump Room, completed in 1830. The ground floor assembly room, with its highly decorated domed ceiling, is home to Cheltenham’s last remaining pump for tasting the spa water that made the town famous.

The first iron-rich spring, now buried deep below Cheltenham Ladies’ College, was discovered in the early 18th century, and its popularity boomed after a five-week visit from King George III in 1788. However, by the time Pitville Pump Room was built there were at least seven spas in the town and the craze for taking the water had all but passed.

The Pump Room in Pitville Park is now the only place to taste Cheltenham’s famous spa water

From the town centre, strolling southwards along the wide tree-lined Promenade, the affluent suburb of Montpellier is home to some of the town’s best Regency architecture, along with upmarket bars, boutique shops and restaurants.

Opposite Montpellier Gardens is the Rotunda, part of Montpellier’s former spa complex and now home to The Ivy, while on the corner champagne corks pop throughout the afternoon at Montpellier Wine Bar. Lovers of gin must visit spirit merchant John Gordons once the sun is over the yardarm, where more than 100 varieties line the heaving shelves of the cocktail bar.

Montpellier Wine Bar typifies the boutique nature of the area

Cheltenham’s only Michelin Star restaurant, Le Champignon Sauvage, is just around the corner on Suffolk Road. Run by husband-and-wife team David and Helen Everitt-Matthias for over 31 years, the modern French cooking has received plaudits from far and wide. For over a decade it was one of only around 20 restaurants in the UK to hold a prestigious second star, though sadly it lost this in October 2018.

In the town centre, Regent Street is a microcosm of the Cheltenham food scene with several good bars, a deli specialising in cheese, and casual dining room WOODKraft, opened by MasterChef winner Simon Wood in December 2018. Alongside the usual offering of champagne brunches, Sunday roasts and delicious coffee, on Ladies Day Simon will be cooking a five-course tasting menu made with fresh local ingredients that will surely be fit for a winner.

Read more: An elegant stay at Tortworth Court