Opening as Beer House in the 1700s before becoming a hotel in the 1800s, The Swan is a busy pub in the centre of Wedmore village, with six bedrooms and a kitchen run by Tom Blake from River Cottage  

We opened the large, heavy door to the bar and were immediately greeted by the scent of mulled spices. “Sometimes I just open the lid and inhale that gorgeous Christmassy scent,” said the smiling manager. The Swan is a pub and hotel right in the centre of the village of Wedmore, just beyond Cheddar. Wooden floors, generous and considered food, comfortable and pretty decor with a touch of the industrial. Dark metal hanging light fittings and woodburners mix with the delicate wallpaper patterns. Nothing too country sweet; warm, welcoming and with that extra something that makes it special. The soaps and hand creams made locally, the vintage suitcase and hanging pegs in the bedroom, fresh flowers, the Christmas tree decorated with wooden knives and forks. 

We stayed in the large double room at the front of the hotel, with doors opening above the Swan’s main entrance. We could see all of the action of the village. The Aladdin’s cave style local shop opposite with Christmas trees waiting patiently to be festooned with decorations in living rooms, next to a cycle of dogs tied up with wet noses in the air. Multi coloured lights had been strung up outside and in the trees of the surrounding gardens. Christmas trees in windows of Cotswold stone homes, children marching to their Christingle service at the local church. It would be hard for anyone not to feel a tad Christmassy at the sight of Wedmore in December. 

The room was spacious, with a super king sized bed with crisp white sheets and the obligatory scattering of large cushions. Two soft tartan covered armchairs were positioned by the doors and a tea and coffee – including a cafetiere – selection sat on a table behind them. The bathroom held a large and very deep roll top bath, next to the cold, misty windows. The separate walk-in shower  had a waterfall shower head and the bathroom products made with essential oils were lined up, ready for use. 

Our evening meal included a sharing starter which included belly pork, ewe’s cheese dumplings and smoked mackerel pate. Every bit of it was delicious and a great way to get the taste buds going with all those flavours. For the main, I had the Ling, meaty and with a soft mash. Buttery, delicate and still hearty on this cold night. My companion had pheasant, which came with potato gratin and offset the rich flavours of the meat. We both opted for the salted caramel chocolate tart, pleasingly gooey; the delicious thin pastry had a layer of oozing caramel, before the denser chocolate on top. Coffee and whiskey to finish and we were utterly content. 

We slept well in the enormous bed and woke to blue skies over Wedmore. For breakfast we enjoyed scrambled eggs on toast, bacon, fresh coffee and juice. We could now see the garden in the light, smart and well-maintained, with places to explore for children, while the adults could enjoy a local ale or tea and cake. Locals came in and out, chatting with the staff jovially and there was a sense of real community in the village, with the pub serving as a hub for chatter, meetings, and parties. 

As we left through the big doors, we were greeted with the chill of the morning. We strolled through the village and on our way back purchased a jar of damson and plum jam from a lady with a stall just along from the hotel. Everyone greeted her as they went past on their morning errands. We discussed living in France and eau de vie – fruit brandy – French for the water of life. It felt like we had been away for days. 

Stay at The Swan from £85/night. www.theswanwedmore.com