Wild Wales

While the Gower might be south west Wales’ go-to spot for golden beaches, travel a little further and you’ll reach Pembrokeshire’s rocky cliffs, fascinating islands and pretty fishing towns – the only coastal national park in Britain. Getting here is a simple drive to the end of the M4 and then along fast A roads, or there’s a good train line from Swansea.

The sheltered sandy beach at Saundersfoot is Pembrokeshire’s gateway, with far-reaching views across the marina and bay from the high cliff at its south end. Make sure you try the ice-cream at Sidoli’s sweet little shack near the marina slipway for a real taste of the summer holiday.

Tenby’s castle beach is the launching point for boat trips to Caldey Island

A handful of miles along the coast is the much bigger town of Tenby, hemmed in on all sides by stretches of pristine beach. Walk uphill from the train station to find the imposing and largely intact town walls, which date from the 13th century, and gain access to the old city within via the Five Arches, the D-shaped gateway built to deter Spanish invaders.

Once inside, you’ll find yourself in a dense network of narrow streets with few vehicles. It’s a pleasure to get lost amongst the souvenir shops selling novelty Welsh tea towels and sticks of rock, and suddenly be faced with a view of the bright blue sea through a gap between the narrow guesthouses.

Tenby’s narrow streets are a joy to explore

Tenby is stuffed with places to eat, drink and be merry, whether your tastes are for fresh seafood on white tablecloths or greasy fish and chips on a bench with a sea view. Caffi Llew on Tudor Square, the main shopping street, is a great spot for a hearty breakfast, relaxing cup of tea or a fresh lunch, while the tiny Lifeboat Tavern nearby is bursting with activity and has a sunny garden at the back.

All roads lead to Bridge Street, where the crowded town gives way to views across the pretty harbour with its sweep of sand lying at the feet of grand houses reminiscent of one of Clifton’s colourful crescents. Pass through the archway to reach Castle Beach or climb up the adjacent path to the grey stone tower – all that is left of the castle. The modern and restored lifeboat stations offer interesting distractions as you walk around the rocky lump and back to where you started, at the kiosk selling ferry tickets to Caldey Island (£11 return for adults and £6 for children, daily except Sundays).

Caldey Island is populated by an order of monks, and is a popular spot for walks and picnics

The ferry leaves Castle Beach for an easy 20-minute journey past St Catherine’s Island and fort to the holy island, still populated by an order of Cistercian monks. While the north boasts a spectacular golden beach, the south is a rugged network of high cliffs and clean waters full of frolicking seals. Explore the village, the ruined old priory to the south and take a walk along the clifftop path beside the lighthouse before taking the ferry home.

Back on the mainland, the villages of Penally and Lydstep are dominated by holiday parks, while between the two is Becks Bay campsite. Reasonably-priced pitches are available, as is luxury glamping: the bell tents come fully equipped with beds, a stocked picnic basket and even a campfire circle for a perfect evening of winding down with a glass of wine over the embers. The campsite backs onto the coastal path, and it’s a pleasant walk to a westerly viewpoint to watch the sun sink below the waves.

Luxury glamping at Becks Bay campsite certainly beats a normal tent

The villages thin out as you travel westwards towards Stackpole and Bosherston. The manicured Stackpole Estate, a National Trust property with a lake and walled gardens, gives way to the rawness of nature as you reach the coast and the perpetually blustery Saint Govan’s Head with its spectacular views. The area is a mecca for climbers who scale the grey cliffs high above the pounding waters.

From the carpark, carefully descend the uneven steps to find Saint Govan’s Chapel, an astounding structure hewn from the rock and built on the site of a cave that, legend has it, opened up in the rock when St Govan was desperately seeking shelter from pirates. The rockpools below make for a great picnicking spot beside the pounding sea. Shake off the cobwebs of city life and breathe in the fresh salty air.