People / Interviews

Food democracy in Bristol

By Pamela Parkes  Tuesday Feb 16, 2016

A group of teenagers are gathered in the kitchens at The Park in Knowle West listening intently to the instructions about how to make a pasta sauce. They’re passing around capers and black olives to taste and writing down recipe notes.

This group may have learning difficulties but that’s not stopping them learning how to make delicious and nutritious food.

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“It’s about food democracy,” says Barny Haughton, the founder of Square Food Foundation.

“My view of food education is the kind of food I cook myself should be available to everybody. In Italy, whether you are rich or poor you eat the same food – it is a hugely democratic approach to food which you don’t have here.”

Last year, the foundation taught more than 500 people cookery skills but it is teaching much more than just making food. 

The foundation is committed to breaking down social isolation and supporting some of the most vulnerable people in society to develop self-esteem and confidence. 

Haughton and his team work with disadvantaged teenagers helping them get a cookery qualifications, hold drop-in and cooking clubs for elderly and isolated adults, and teach people responsible for cooking for large groups how to improve their skills. 

Haughton also works closely with the One25 charity helping women trapped in sex work and addiction to improve their cookery skills and build their self-confidence.

Square Food Foundation was founded by Haughton in 1998 and it has gone from strength to strength. He started teaching out of his former restaurant Quartier Vert on Whiteladies Road (now The Townhouse) before moving the school to another former restaurant of his, Bordeaux Quay

From the start, the cookery lessons subsidised the work Haughton was doing in the community, spreading his philosophy of good food for everyone. 

Based in Knowle West since 2011, the kitchens are a hive of activity. As well as the community cooking there are public classes in everything from basic cookery skills and kids cooking classes, to advanced masterclasses in bistro cooking to Mumbai street food. 

The same philosophy exists – the classes help subsidise the community work which is supported by a core team of volunteers. 

It’s the circle of support that Haughton has always envisaged.

The foundation is always looking for more volunteers to support their work – no qualifications are needed. For more information, visit www.squarefoodfoundation.co.uk

 

Read more: St Paul’s Cafe – cafe review

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