People / My 2018

My 2018: George Livesey

By Martin Booth  Sunday Dec 23, 2018

For George Livesey, 2018 has been “so wild… a real rollercoaster”.

He has had two operations on a hernia and a broken ankle, got engaged, and in October his restaurant Bulrush in Cotham was awarded a Michelin star.

Getting recognition from the world’s most prestigious food guide was not what Livesey was expecting when he opened Bulrush three years ago.

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“A lot of people presumed a star was what we were going for,” Livesey told Bristol24/7 on a recent Saturday afternoon between lunch and dinner services.

“But we were trying to make a restaurant that would stay afloat and make a little bit of money.”

Two typical plates of food in Bulrush

Livesey credits Jack Reid, his second in command in the kitchen, with helping him keep pushing forward their menu.

He also thanks his restaurant manager, Oscar Neill, with keeping the front of house in order after the departure in Bulrush’s second year of Katherine Craughwell, who Livesey had set up the restaurant with after it was initially founded as a supper club in east London.

The Michelin inspectors describe Bulrush as “a sweet neighbourhood restaurant run by a friendly team… Seasonal ingredients are foraged or organic, and preserving and pickling play a key role. The imaginative, well-balanced and deftly prepared tasting menus are a popular choice.”

The first that Livesey heard of a possible star was when his team told him that they had received an email from Michelin inviting him to an event in London. At the event, Livesey’s ankle was still in plaster following the operation.

“I didn’t expect it,” he admitted. “I just want to crack on, working hard. Everyone here is so focused. I just want to keep things honest. The fundamental thing is that we want to make people happy.”

Read more: My 2018: Briony Williams

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