Columnists / Meg Houghton-Gilmour

‘Influencers are creating a false standard of food’

By Meg Houghton-Gilmour  Thursday Mar 16, 2023

If you have a social media account, there’s a high chance that at some point you’ve seen something that looks delicious. Your thumb hovers over your phone screen preparing to release the coveted double tap. You like this. You have been influenced.

Food influencers have been on the rise for years. In Bristol, there is a whole community dedicated to the cause and they do a fantastic job of helping food businesses connect to new audiences.

There are nearly 250 thousand results under the hashtag #bristolfood on Instagram. Photo: Instagram

The problem is that influencers can be bought. Some have built audiences for the sole purpose of being given freebies or being paid to enjoy our city’s hospitality.

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The Advertising Standards Authority says influencers must clearly label when they have received any form of payment, which includes being given something for free. The ASA found that people struggle to identify when social media posts by influencers are ads, and no wonder – often the #ad is buried at the bottom of a long caption.

By the time you’ve read about how hidden this gem is and how ‘mouth-watering’ its food; the chances are you’ve already been influenced.

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Have you ever seen a negative review followed by #ad? Even if the food is bad, they’re not going to say so. It’s rude for a start and they want to be invited back. Until the tech gods work out how we can taste through a screen – Mike Teavee style – you won’t know any different.

Imagine being told a dish/chef/restaurant is incredible, ingenious, the best thing this person has ever eaten. You seek it out. It’s fine, maybe even good. But as far as you’re concerned, it’s the best thing ever. Because that’s what you’ve been told – and someone with 15,000 followers wouldn’t lie, right?

I am sometimes criticised for being honest and saying when something isn’t very good. I go against the grain by doing so. It must be hard to believe when there were dozens of people only a week before saying how amazing it was.

Breakfast at The Met, which Meg reviewed last year – photo: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

The difference? At Bristol24/7 we pay in full for every meal we review and always visit anonymously.

And as for the influencers? We mustn’t tar them all with the same brush. Some do declare ads. But I don’t follow them. I don’t want to risk it. If I’m going to be influenced, I’d like it to be by someone who has paid in full.

Meg Houghton-Gilmour is Bristol24/7’s Community & Memberships Manager. Subscribe here to her weekly food & drink newsletter.

Main photo: Karen Houghton

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