‘Bristol is not so eclectic as it likes to believe’

A Proustian impulse led me to choose England as the location to spend my year abroad during the third year of my French university studies.

As my gaze swept over the map of Europe hanging on the wall of my bathroom, it came to rest on Bristol.

I was curious to see what was happening on the other side of the Channel, in this country that thinks it is so special to refuse to be affiliated any longer to the European Union.

I remembered the jubilant scenes following the 2016 referendum, and also the mountain of images of pro-European protests, the echoes of galloping inflation and the succession of prime ministers.

What was really going on?

I justified my choice by saying that I wanted to discover – with my backpack on – an English city on the move, one that is developing an authentic and modern identity, urban and green, a hybrid city par excellence.

So after more than two months in Bristol, what has happened to my illusions?

Beyond simply saying that there is a real Bristolian spirit, I quickly got the impression that decisions to open up Bristol to the world are difficult for people to follow.

At an event organised by the University of Bristol International Affairs Society last month, mayor Marvin Rees said that “we need to see cities as international assets”, adding that “Bristol does not belong to the UK”.

Making Bristol an increasingly student-friendly city means changing the housing landscape (more student residences but accompanied by skyrocketing rents) and also relying on them to curate the Bristolian soul.

Culturally, I have been happily reassured, even seduced, by Bristol. The image of a vibrant city does not fade and even becomes more colourful as I further engage with its cultural life.

But finding these cultural spaces is not easy. Firstly, they are often far removed, especially geographically, from typical student locations; and secondly, the ‘underground’ culture that is touted internationally is perhaps too ‘underground’ to be found, if it exists at all.

In my opinion, Bristol is not so eclectic as it likes to believe and has a declining reputation as a ‘green city’ . As well as increased gentrification, I get the impression of ‘Londonisation’ thanks to the continuing flow of Londoners leaving the capital for Bristol.

Living in Bristol for me is not just about walking around the Downs or having a falafel in St Nick’s. It is also about realising that this city is doing its best to disassociate itself from national choices and hopes to remain firmly part of a European urban network.

But Bristol seems to be struggling to offer a comfortable life to the people who live here, with the urban fabric of the city fracturing.

Inès de Boudemange is a freelance journalist from Paris who is currently studying geography at the University of Bristol

Main photo: Inès de Boudemange

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